Selecting a Level-2 Charger

[scbolt]

Any idea why the Juicebox Pro 40 is showing as "currently unavailable" for a while now? Several weeks back when I checked, it was available. It still seems to be available on eMoterWerks web store, but not on Amazon. Any idea why?

UPDATE: now I can't even find the Juicebox Pro 40 on Amazon any more! Is a new version of this on the way and hence Amazon pulled this from the store?

 

[sgt1372]

Any idea why the Juicebox Pro 40 is showing as "currently unavailable" for a while now?

Have you tried calling or emailing them directly?

 

[DucRider]

Any idea why the Juicebox Pro 40 is showing as "currently unavailable" for a while now? Several weeks back when I checked, it was available. It still seems to be available on eMoterWerks web store, but not on Amazon. Any idea why?

UPDATE: now I can't even find the Juicebox Pro 40 on Amazon any more! Is a new version of this on the way and hence Amazon pulled this from the store?

Maybe they don't want to pay the Amazon fees?

Why not just order it direct since it is available there?

 

[MichaelBOLTon]

Emotorwerks recently updated the design and looks for their JuiceBox line... maybe thats why. Amazon listing might be out of date? Amazon used to have them listed, old plain metal finish, VS the new black anodized finish with new antenna. The new box looks great

I just ordered directly from Emotorwerks... got FREE SHIPPING too!

 

[scbolt]

Thanks all! Won't have my Bolt delivered for another couple months, so not in a super rush ... but yes, if I were to get it today, I would likely get it directly from eMotorWerks. I was just curious why Amazon apparently discontinued what appears to be a very popular product.

They still carry the JB Pro 75, but I don't think I need that capacity quite yet.

 

[sgt1372]

just got the charger that I ordered from Clipper Creek (the HCS-40P) in just 2 days -- really 1 considering I ordered it late on Monday. Pretty fast even though they said it wouldn't come until the end of the week.

Only problem now is that my electrician hurt himself. So, may not be able to get the wiring done for a couple of weeks. I've used this guy for everything in my house. So, I'm just going to wait until he can handle it. Hopefully, it won't take too long.

 

[Anonymous]

Clipper Creek is up near Auburn; they just rolled it down the river for ya!

 

[sgt1372]

Just mounted the Clipper Creek to the wall and it's ready to go as soon as my electrician gets back on his feet and can run the conduit and install the 14-50 outlet.

 

[Anonymous]

Nicely done! Hope the Plug-in is long enough for your electrician's needs.

Are they including the holster these days? Back in my Volt days it was an $49.95 add-on!

Is this installed on the charge port side of the Bolt EV?

 

[sgt1372]

Nicely done! Hope the Plug-in is long enough for your electrician's needs.

Are they including the holster these days? Back in my Volt days it was an $49.95 add-on!

Is this installed on the charge port side of the Bolt EV?

Thanks!

The 240V conduit will have to come down from the ceiling to the left of the charger and then go right under the charger to install the outlet at 11" on center below the charger to align w/the plug. Assume the electrician will have no problem doing this.

The holster was included along w/a small padlock that I don't need.

The charger is on the driver's side of the Bolt which gives it easy/convenient access to the charging port door at the front of the car but w/the 25' cord I could also reach the port if the Bolt was parked in the space to the right where the BMW is parked now.

 

[Anonymous]

eMotorWerks has more than doubled shipment volumes at the end of 2016 and early 2017 due to accelerated growth in EV sales and the newly-designed version of the well-loved JuiceBox Pro 40. While the product does still frequently appear in stock on Amazon, it sells out very quickly, so you may want to order directly at eMotorWerks. The unavailability has nothing to do with Amazon fees or other reasons, just the challenges of keeping up with a fast-growing EV market and increased popularity of the product.

Anna,
eMotorWerks team

 

[sgt1372]

Just blew a 15A circuit breaker when I switched the outlet for the 110V charger in the garage. Turned out that circuit also feeds my TV room which feeds my big screen TV, related equipment and a high watt halogen floor lamp. Switched the charger cord back to the other outlet.

I've been taking quite a few 60 mile RT drives lately which has dropped the voltage/mileage down to around 50-55% and have been plugging the 110V charger in daily.

Now I'm wondering how much this will affect my electricity bill. Have to charger it 16-20 hours w/o any regard to low/high demand rates.
Hope I'm not too "shocked" when I get my next bill.

Can anyone who has previously owned an EV give me (us) a range of estimated cost for electricity used based on mileage driven or hours charged?

Just curious . . .

 

[SparkE]

Just blew a 15A circuit breaker when I switched the outlet for the 110V charger in the garage. Turned out that circuit also feeds my TV room which feeds my big screen TV, related equipment and a high watt halogen floor lamp. Switched the charger cord back to the other outlet.

I've been taking quite a few 60 mile RT drives lately which has dropped the voltage/mileage down to around 50-55% and have been plugging the 110V charger in daily.

Now I'm wondering how much this will affect my electricity bill. Have to charger it 16-20 hours w/o any regard to low/high demand rates.
Hope I'm not too "shocked" when I get my next bill.

Can anyone who has previously owned an EV give me (us) a range of estimated cost for electricity used based on mileage driven or hours charged?

Just curious . . .

Well, your car tells you how much electricity you used (either total kWh, or miles/kWh, or both). Your electricity put into the battery is *probably* close to 90% of the electricity pulled from the wall (although it might be closer to 85%) - so add 15% to kWh used by driving the car.

Your electric bill tells you your cost per kWh (which varies depending on where you are, and what plan you have - your really need to look on your bill to find your rate).

 

[devbolt]

A number of utilities are offering EV Time Of Use electric rate schedules. You get super cheap overnight (off-peak) rates, but the daytime and evening rates can be higher. If you can shift most of your electricity usage to the partial-peak and off-peak times, it can help save on your bill. Some utilities have a tool on their websites that will compare different rate plans based on your past usage and tell you which rate will save you money.

 

[WetEV]

Now I'm wondering how much this will affect my electricity bill. Have to charger it 16-20 hours w/o any regard to low/high demand rates.
Hope I'm not too "shocked" when I get my next bill.

Can anyone who has previously owned an EV give me (us) a range of estimated cost for electricity used based on mileage driven or hours charged?

Just curious . . .

I pay about $0.105 per kWh, and use about 200kWh per month. For me, about $22 a month to drive about 800 miles with a L2 charger.

Your rate will vary, as will your miles/kWh and your charging efficiency.

Based on my Leaf:
Wall to wheels, I get about 4m/kWh, a bit less in winter and a bit more in summer, excluding trips.
Battery to wheels, I get about 4.0m/kWh in winter and about 4.8m/kWh in summer. My commute is mostly 35-40MPH.


L1 charging is about 70% efficient with the Leaf.
L2 charging is about 90% efficient with the Leaf.

kWh used is about (miles/kWh car) * miles * charging efficiency.

Higher efficiency and lower overnight rates can make an L2 charging station a good investment. Need to crunch the numbers for yourself, but an L2 charging station is a nice thing to have.

 

[Dgodfrey]

Just blew a 15A circuit breaker when I switched the outlet for the 110V charger in the garage. Turned out that circuit also feeds my TV room which feeds my big screen TV, related equipment and a high watt halogen floor lamp. Switched the charger cord back to the other outlet.

I've been taking quite a few 60 mile RT drives lately which has dropped the voltage/mileage down to around 50-55% and have been plugging the 110V charger in daily.

Now I'm wondering how much this will affect my electricity bill. Have to charger it 16-20 hours w/o any regard to low/high demand rates.
Hope I'm not too "shocked" when I get my next bill.

Can anyone who has previously owned an EV give me (us) a range of estimated cost for electricity used based on mileage driven or hours charged?

Just curious . . .

I drive about 1,000 miles a month and it works out to about $30/month @ .13/Kwh. Whether it's level 1 or 2 shouldn't have a significant impact although there are more losses with one over the other but I don't remember which IIRC.

 

[Dgodfrey]

Just blew a 15A circuit breaker when I switched the outlet for the 110V charger in the garage. Turned out that circuit also feeds my TV room which feeds my big screen TV, related equipment and a high watt halogen floor lamp. Switched the charger cord back to the other outlet.

I've been taking quite a few 60 mile RT drives lately which has dropped the voltage/mileage down to around 50-55% and have been plugging the 110V charger in daily.

Now I'm wondering how much this will affect my electricity bill. Have to charger it 16-20 hours w/o any regard to low/high demand rates.
Hope I'm not too "shocked" when I get my next bill.

Can anyone who has previously owned an EV give me (us) a range of estimated cost for electricity used based on mileage driven or hours charged?

Just curious . . .

I drive about 1,000 miles a month and it works out to about $30/month @ .13/Kwh. Whether it's level 1 or 2 shouldn't have a significant impact although there are more losses with one over the other but I don't remember which IIRC.

Ooops, I see wetEV answered my last comment.

 

[Posatronic]

None of the Volt or bolts charge cords should be used for 240 v because the cord is 18awg. Way too small and dangerous.

The gauge of the cord is required to handle the rated current, not the rated voltage. If the Bolt/Volt EVSE cord can handle 12A at 120V, then the gauge is sufficient to handle 12A at 240V as well. It's the insulation that determines the maximum voltage, and since the Gen 2 Volt / Bolt's EVSE appears to be designed to run at 240V and there have been numerous reports of successfully doing so, I have to assume that the insulation is sufficient.

Correct but running any amp on 18awg or 16awg is not smart. Smaller wire will burn up you devices ( running tools on a job site proves this, use 12awg extension cords or bigger) Let's assume a regular outlet in your home at 15 amps. 14 awg is standard in a house but 12 awg in kitchen. Draws more amps and bigger appliances and code. Why would you even use this gauge?? My Volt charger got too hot and melted. I changed our plug to commercial grade and no more problems. Can't believe they give warnings about extension cords for the Volt but have such thin wire.
Cost very little to install larger wire for future possibilities.

 

[Anonymous]

Can anyone who has previously owned an EV give me (us) a range of estimated cost for electricity used based on mileage driven or hours charged?

Just curious . . .

My leased Chevy Volt, which had a 40 miles battery and a 1,000 mile per month lease (and which I drove spot on 1,000 miles per month until I loaned the car to my daughter towards the end of the lease and returned it with about 2,400 too few miles) averaged about $40 per month extra electricity costs on the "common" meter which fed my garage, laundry room and common lighting to my 4-plex.

This is LADWP pricing from 2013 to 2016 on the 110v charger which I continue to use with the Bolt EV.

I have not yet had a full two months LADWP bill since I leased my Bolt EV on January 3rd and of course one bill is anecdotal.

 

[sgt1372]

I pay about $0.105 per kWh, and use about 200kWh per month. For me, about $22 a month to drive about 800 miles with a L2 charger.

I drive about 1,000 miles a month and it works out to about $30/month @ .13/Kwh. Whether it's level 1 or 2 shouldn't have a significant impact although there are more losses with one over the other but I don't remember which IIRC.

Thanks, this is the kind of info I was looking for.

Obviously, my personal results will vary but I'm limited to driving my Bolt 800 miles/month on 10k mile annual limit under the lease. So, I'll be looking for an approximate increase in my electric bill of around $20-30/month.

My current electrical cost probably will be a little higher since I'm still using the L1 cord and have to charge the car for 16-20 hours per day over 2 days to get it back to a full charge from about a 50% SOC.

Should cost less when I get my L2 charger hooked up and can schedule charges to correspond to lower demand/lower rate time periods.