Selecting a Level-2 Charger

[lmitano]

I looking for the lowest price level 2 charger that can get the Cal Edison Rebate. Anyone here got it?

 

[DucRider]

I looking for the lowest price level 2 charger that can get the Cal Edison Rebate. Anyone here got it?

The "charger" is built into the car.

What you are looking for is an EVSE.....

I don't see a residential rebate on the SCE website, only the "Charge Ready" program for public locations. Do you have a link?.

L2 EVSE costs start at about $250 for generic units (usually 12-16 amps) and imported from China.
UL listed units made in the US start at ~$379 (Clipper Creek - for a 12A unit)

The Bolt charge times published by Chevy (9 hours) assume a 32 A unit, so the lower cost options will be significantly slower. Many people find the slower charge rates work fine for their driving habits, but others will spend a little more to get a unit that provides the maximum power that the charger will utilize (and minimize charge time).

"Charge Ready Program"

Program Requirements
Qualify as a non-residential customer
Meet the program's guidelines for existing and future EV adoption
Own, lease, or operate a site that provides long dwell-time parking (where cars are typically parked for four hours or more)
Provide a grant of easement by the property owner
Deliver proof of purchase of qualified charging equipment
What to Have Ready
Your Customer Account Number and Service Account Number, if you are currently an SCE customer
Federal Tax ID Number
County Tax Assessor Parcel Number (if applicable)
Name of the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) to issue building permit approvals (if applicable)
Proposed charging station location for site (optional)
PDF of property site plan (optional)
Civil plan, aka base map, with existing utilities (optional)

 

[lmitano]

Thanks Gary, since Im a new Bolt owner, your help is appreciated. Lloyd

 

[charge]

Hello, We just leased a Chevy Bolt and are looking to install a Level-2 charger at the house. I have 110 amp panel and already have an electric dryer in the garage, so it should be straightforward for an electrician. My question is whether I should use the Chevy endorsed AeroVironment's EVSE, or think longer term and get a charger with a higher rating, or any other considerations. I live in California's Bay Area, so please keep that in mind for any suggestions.
Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek-LCS-20P-Charging-Station-CERTIFIED/dp/B013HBCB6E/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1487977171&sr=8-8&keywords=clipper+creek

Is the one I'd get if I were you. 16 amps, 240 v, gives you a 3.3kW energy flow rate into your Bolt for a 9-hour overnight charge from a typical low SOC (state of charge). 9 hours x 3.3kW puts about 30kWH in your battery, good for about 120 miles per day.
Spend more an upgrade to a 6.6kW Clipper charger and you can get that battery up after daily 240 mile trips, if you drive a lot.

I don't think you can use your clothes dryer line since the wire running to your Main Electrical Box Panel is likely not beefy enough to run a dryer and your Bolt at the same time. Ask an electrician to be sure, but you'll probably need to install a new 20 or 30 amp breaker and new wire from the Main Box to your garage to run the new 16 amp 240v Clipper.

 

[Anonymous]

It is possible for the electrician to install an A-B switch with the existing wire so that he can either use the dryer or charge the Bolt EV, but not both at the same time.

My advice is go with the more expensive higher amp EVSE's up to 32A so that you can recharge a completely depleted battery overnight, if that is important to you.

I have the Clipper Creek LCS-25p at 16A from my Chevy Volt days when I was only recharging a 16.5 KWh battery in 4-5 hours.

The Bolt EV with its 60KWh battery can take almost 4 times longer, depending on the amount of battery usage each day.

 

[Posatronic]

None of the Volt or bolts charge cords should be used for 240 v because the cord is 18awg. Way too small and dangerous.

 

[SeanNelson]

None of the Volt or bolts charge cords should be used for 240 v because the cord is 18awg. Way too small and dangerous.

The gauge of the cord is required to handle the rated current, not the rated voltage. If the Bolt/Volt EVSE cord can handle 12A at 120V, then the gauge is sufficient to handle 12A at 240V as well. It's the insulation that determines the maximum voltage, and since the Gen 2 Volt / Bolt's EVSE appears to be designed to run at 240V and there have been numerous reports of successfully doing so, I have to assume that the insulation is sufficient.

 

[devbolt]

None of the Volt or bolts charge cords should be used for 240 v because the cord is 18awg. Way too small and dangerous.

Only the pilot-signal wire is 18 AWG. The rest of the conductors are 16 AWG which is more than sufficient for charging.

 

[EldRick]

Just do some research on your own time, for pete's sake. There are 50 different versions of J1772 EVSE available, and dozens of reviews on Amazon and elsewhere, and no-one knows what's best for you. They all work, and none is "best" for every need.

 

[sgt1372]

Just placed my order for the Clipper Creek HCS-40P for my L2 home charger. Should ship at the end of the week arrive early next week.

it was this one: https://store.clippercreek.com/residential?product_id=67

Already cleared the wall where it's going to go of all my ski gear. Also got $1.5k in refunds from Chevy/Tesla for the canceled reservation deposits to pay for the charger and wiring.

Just need to schedule an install date w/my electrician to run the conduit and install the NEMA 14-50 outlet which will probably take another week. Going to wait to get the charger b4 I do that. Then it'll be ready to go.

Making do w/the 110v cord but would be nice to get 25mi/hr w/the L2 at 240v rather than just 4 mi/hr w/the 110v cord.

 

[Anonymous]

Just curious: why go for a plug in model? Why not have the electrician just permanently connect a non-plug in model?

Maybe a Tesla in your future?

 

[DucRider]

Just curious: why go for a plug in model? Why not have the electrician just permanently connect a non-plug in model?

Maybe a Tesla in your future?

Installation of an outlet is a lot more straightforward for electricians and inspectors. I've heard of one or both balking at hardwiring a non-UL listed EVSE (not an issue with the Clipper Creek), and the NEC also has restrictions on where an EVSE is located (ADA accessibility, etc).

Plus, if you ever move, it's much easier to take a plug in unit (and it can be thrown in the back of the EV if you have a need to charge at an RV Park/Campground).

 

[Anonymous]

Maybe that is why I still have the Clipper Creek LCS-25P kicking around from my Chevy Volt days. I never used it much, because I never brought 240v into the garage:

https://store.clippercreek.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=73&search=lcs-25p

 

[drgnfish]

I just purchased the JuiceBox Pro 75A from eMotorWerks https://emotorwerks.com/store-juicebox-ev-charging-stations/1630-juicebox-pro-75-smart-75-amp-evse-with-24-foot-cable/category_pathway-23 it was $899 with a $100 discount if you join their rewards program, which basically has your car charge during off peek hours. Also got the $299 install for the 240V ( only in California). I'll keep you updated on how fast it charges the Bolt.

 

[MichaelBOLTon]

I bought the juicebox Pro 40. 40A is more than the bolt will draw (32A), but for the $100 more than the regular Juicebox 40 you get wifi connectivity. I want it so I can have a log of my home charging so I can use it as a write off since the bolt is my main vehicle for business. This way I can accurately log how much electricity goes to the home VS the bolt. But also has other good features which let's you control/monitor the charge from the app.
Only bought a 40A dual pole breaker for my panel as the 50A was pricy. Ran 8AWG 3 conductor armoured cable to the NEMA 14-50 plug. 7M of cable, breaker, plug, box, connectors, etc set me back just over $100. So pretty cheap, then hooked up to the panel. Fairly easy job.

 

[devbolt]

I bought the juicebox Pro 40. 40A is more than the bolt will draw (30A), but for the $100 more than the regular Juicebox 40 you get wifi connectivity. I want it so I can have a log of my home charging so I can use it as a write off since the bolt is my main vehicle for business. This way I can accurately log how much electricity goes to the home VS the bolt. But also has other good features which let's you control/monitor the charge from the app.
Only bought a 40A dual pole breaker for my panel as the 50A was pricy. Ran 8AWG 3 conductor armoured cable to the NEMA 14-50 plug. 7M of cable, breaker, plug, box, connectors, etc set me back just over $100. So pretty cheap, then hooked up to the panel. Fairly easy job.

NEC code says that a NEMA 14-50 outlet is supposed to have a 50A breaker. Don't be a cheapskate when it comes to the electrical system of your house. Putting the wrong size breaker on that circuit could result in a fire if something goes wrong with the JuiceBox or the Bolt. Be smart and put in the right size breaker for the outlet and for the JuiceBox to use. And technically you might need to run 6AWG wiring for the plug. It's that whole continuous use de-rating thing that's going on...

 

[markbolt11]

I went with the Chargepoint Home 32 Amp Plug-in station with a 25 foot cord. It was $749 on Amazon but fortunately Delaware's Clean Vehicle rebates cover 50% of the cost up to $500! Mounting and set-up was very easy, once it turned on was a couple clicks in the Chargepoint app and it connected to Wifi and set itself up very quickly. Definitely recommend. Now waiting for the car...

 

[michael]

I bought the juicebox Pro 40. 40A is more than the bolt will draw (30A), but for the $100 more than the regular Juicebox 40 you get wifi connectivity. I want it so I can have a log of my home charging so I can use it as a write off since the bolt is my main vehicle for business. This way I can accurately log how much electricity goes to the home VS the bolt. But also has other good features which let's you control/monitor the charge from the app.
Only bought a 40A dual pole breaker for my panel as the 50A was pricy. Ran 8AWG 3 conductor armoured cable to the NEMA 14-50 plug. 7M of cable, breaker, plug, box, connectors, etc set me back just over $100. So pretty cheap, then hooked up to the panel. Fairly easy job.

NEC code says that a NEMA 14-50 outlet is supposed to have a 50A breaker. Don't be a cheapskate when it comes to the electrical system of your house. Putting the wrong size breaker on that circuit could result in a fire if something goes wrong with the JuiceBox or the Bolt. Be smart and put in the right size breaker for the outlet and for the JuiceBox to use. And technically you might need to run 6AWG wiring for the plug. It's that whole continuous use de-rating thing that's going on...

No harm can result by using a smaller breaker than the rest of the circuit (wires and receptacle) can safely handle. All that happens is that if a dryer, For example, would be plugged into the outlet the breaker would trip.

Yes, this installation is inconsistent with normal practice but it's not unsafe. Unsafe would be to use too large a breaker

 

[wwhitney]

NEC code says that a NEMA 14-50 outlet is supposed to have a 50A breaker.

That's not actually true. For a branch circuit that feeds just one receptacle, the only requirement is that the receptacle size be no smaller than the breaker size (NEC 210.21(B)(1)).

So a 50 amp receptacle on a 40 amp breaker is just fine. Since there are no NEMA 40 amp receptacles, it's the only way to install a receptacle on a 40 amp circuit.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[sgt1372]

Just curious: why go for a plug in model? Why not have the electrician just permanently connect a non-plug in model?

Maybe a Tesla in your future?

Installation of an outlet is a lot more straightforward for electricians and inspectors. I've heard of one or both balking at hardwiring a non-UL listed EVSE (not an issue with the Clipper Creek), and the NEC also has restrictions on where an EVSE is located (ADA accessibility, etc).

Plus, if you ever move, it's much easier to take a plug in unit (and it can be thrown in the back of the EV if you have a need to charge at an RV Park/Campground).

MichaelLAX: ^This is why.

As for Tesla, I cancelled my M3 reservation but I'm still interested in the car. I don't need/want 2 EVs but when the Bolt lease runs out in 3 years, I'll consider selling/trading in my BMW for the M3.

I believe Tesla's come w/adpaters so that I should be able to use the ClipperCreek charger with it if I get one. If that won't work, I'd either buy/install a Tesla charger and sell the ClipperCreek which will be easy to remove since it's a plug-in model.