Has anybody tried these 'portable' EVSEs ??

[EldRick]

There isn't actually much hardware inside an EVSE, so they should be quite reliable. I just can't see that there is much to go wrong in there.

Has anyone ever had an actual problem with an EVSE [other than a) it died, or b) it won't charge a specific car] ?

 

[LeftieBiker]

Why would having an EVSE die not be a problem??? I just had my Clipper Creek L-1 bite the dust, after several years.

 

[GetOffYourGas]

I don't believe that he was implying a dead EVSE is not a problem. Just that it isn't a specific problem.

I actually had a mechanical issue with the plastic connector that makes contact with the car. In my 240V/15A Voltec unit, that piece is attached to the handle with a single screw. It got stuck in my CMax's charge port. The only way I could remove it was by brute force. Fortunately the resulting damage was to the EVSE and not the car! I ended up buying a second Voltec unit on eBay and replacing the whole cord/connector. Now I have a spare circuit card (which I have also heard reports of failing) and housing assembly should I ever need them.

 

[WetEV]

Some of the original EV project Blink units had bad crimps in the J1772 connector. These crimps overheated and destroyed both the plug and input to the car.

 

[paulgipe]

I use a Jesla from quickcharge power on the road. Tesla quality. Not cheap but a real time saver at RV Parks.

 

[trevmar]

Does anyone know what the quiescent (i.e. not connected to Bolt) current drain of the GM supplied EVSE is if left plugged in to either a 110 or 220 volt supply?

Repeatedly inserting and unplugging has me concerned about mechanical wear on the outlet. However, unnecessary drains are also a factor.

I am debating whether to add a double-pole switch to any potential 220 volt circuit at the outlet.

 

[SparkE]

Does anyone know what the quiescent (i.e. not connected to Bolt) current drain of the GM supplied EVSE is if left plugged in to either a 110 or 220 volt supply?

Repeatedly inserting and unplugging has me concerned about mechanical wear on the outlet. However, unnecessary drains are also a factor.

I am debating whether to add a double-pole switch to any potential 220 volt circuit at the outlet.

If you are concerned, but or make a 2-foot, 12-gauge 'pigtail' that you leave plugged into the wall socket, and plug into *it*. When it 'wears out', buy/make another one (for $20).

 

[michael]

Does anyone know what the quiescent (i.e. not connected to Bolt) current drain of the GM supplied EVSE is if left plugged in to either a 110 or 220 volt supply?

Repeatedly inserting and unplugging has me concerned about mechanical wear on the outlet. However, unnecessary drains are also a factor.

I am debating whether to add a double-pole switch to any potential 220 volt circuit at the outlet.

If you are concerned, but or make a 2-foot, 12-gauge 'pigtail' that you leave plugged into the wall socket, and plug into *it*. When it 'wears out', buy/make another one (for $20).

The Aerovironment Turbo Cord draws 2 Watt on standby, 4 while operating. I would think this is representative and not worth bothering plugging/unplugging (0.05 kWh/day )

Most people have fixed EVSE units and don't bother disconnecting while not in use.

 

[winterescape]

Does anyone know what the quiescent (i.e. not connected to Bolt) current drain of the GM supplied EVSE is if left plugged in to either a 110 or 220 volt supply?

Repeatedly inserting and unplugging has me concerned about mechanical wear on the outlet. However, unnecessary drains are also a factor.

I am debating whether to add a double-pole switch to any potential 220 volt circuit at the outlet.

Yes, see this post... 1.54 W
http://www.mychevybolt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6773#p22129