Winter Driving, what’s your experience?

[LeftieBiker]

The Bolt's Low mode might produce a bit too much braking for some situations. I find that Eco in the Leaf is better than B mode for slippery downhills. Does the Bolt have an Eco mode, or is that the normal mode, with the Sport mode adding throttle response and maybe a bit more regen?

 

[electricbolt]

My daily commute going to work is about 135km and where I live it can get to about -20 to -25 celsius. So lets say it is about -15c and it is snowing with snow on the road plus maybe use the heater a bit to defrost or defog the front windshield and plus also add the fact that I plan on getting Nokian Hakkapeliitta studded winter tires how much will I suffer in range if I add all this up. Should I worry?

If it's 135km round trip then I think you'll be fine. But if it's 270km (135km there and another 135km back again) then you may need to charge at work in those kinds of conditions.

It's 135km roundtrip. Not putting on the heater is not a problem for me in terms of warmth but sometimes in extremely cold conditions the windshield fogs up if the heater is not on. Also i've occasions where i've had to have the heater on almost the whole trip on the windshield because of some freezing rain.

 

[SeanNelson]

The Bolt's Low mode might produce a bit too much braking for some situations. I find that Eco in the Leaf is better than B mode for slippery downhills. Does the Bolt have an Eco mode, or is that the normal mode, with the Sport mode adding throttle response and maybe a bit more regen?

There's no "Eco" mode, but even in "L" it's extremely easy to modulate the amount of regen simply by feathering the throttle pedal. I was very much on the fence about "L" mode until I actually got my Bolt and started driving with it, and now I'm a big fan. I use "L" mode pretty much exclusively, even though I'm generally a pretty restrained driver. I often slow down very gradually as I approach stopped traffic ahead because they'll often start moving before I reach them, thus eliminating my need to come to a complete stop. That kind of subtle, graduated braking is easy and intuitive to do in "L" mode, even though you have a lot more braking power at your disposal if you need it through simple throttle pedal manipulation.

 

[SeanNelson]

My daily commute going to work is about 135km and where I live it can get to about -20 to -25 celsius.

If it's 135km round trip then I think you'll be fine. But if it's 270km (135km there and another 135km back again) then you may need to charge at work in those kinds of conditions.

It's 135km roundtrip. Not putting on the heater is not a problem for me in terms of warmth but sometimes in extremely cold conditions the windshield fogs up if the heater is not on. Also i've occasions where i've had to have the heater on almost the whole trip on the windshield because of some freezing rain.

135km is close to a mere 1/3 of the advertised EPA range. I haven't seen sub-zero temperatures yet, but I've driven in temps close to zero C and even with the temperature control set to "Hi" and the heater going full blast the range indicator is showing in the mid to high 200's of km after a Hilltop Reserve charge.

 

[ArthurL]

Charging observations on 110 outlet:

Using 110 charge cord to trickle charge Bolt EV
Non insulated garage
Visual inspection gauge with engine turned on
Estimate 55% on gauge at start of charging

Note on start before turning on car prior to plugging in charge cord the range read 181 km but turn on car read 188

10 AM 188 km showing on car ETA 80% charge 1:15 AM. Temp 21
12 PM 198 ETA 1:00 AM Temp 23
2 PM 208 ETA 1:20 AM Temp 26
4 PM 217 ETA 1:40 AM Temp 25
6 PM 227 ETA 2:15 AM Temp 24
8 PM 236 ETA 2:15 AM Temp 24
10 AM 245 ETA 2:00 AM Temp 25
12 AM 255 ETA 1:30 AM Temp 26
ETA to 80% full on gauge

Range on gauge increase average 5 km per hr. Chevy says the Bolt charges at 4 miles per hour on 110 outlet. That’s 6.3 km. 1.3 km to conditioning at low to mid 20F? That’s 20.06% of the incoming charge. Also about the range loss I had previously estimated.

I did notice that while temp was still in low 20s this morning and the car conditioning all night the range held up much better. I travel a 11 km range and used 14 km of range instead of the 32 km used the previous day without the car being previously plugged in. I think I’ll keep her plugged into the 110 for the winter months. It may cost a bit more but at 7.5 cents a kWh I think it’s a no brainer. Tomorrow I’m going to look at the BC Hydro hourly readings for the last 48 hours with the car plugged in.

 

[alienbogey]

^^ Have you reset your 110 charge rate from the default setting of 8 amps to 12 amps? Your posted results look like 8 amps to me.

If your household circuit can safely take it you might want to change the setting if you haven't already.

 

[ArthurL]

Duh. First time I ever pulled it out to use. Didn’t realize there were two options. Interested to see the dif in charging rate. Thanks for the tip.

 

[SeanNelson]

Duh. First time I ever pulled it out to use. Didn’t realize there were two options. Interested to see the dif in charging rate. Thanks for the tip.

Note that if you're charging at 120V then you'll have to manually set the charging rate to 12A each time unless you enable "Location Based Charging". And I've heard that even if you do that the car will reset back to 8A every 6 months or so.

 

[oilerlord]

Don't put snows on just the front wheels! They will work fine 90% of the time and you will think the setup is ok, and then some icy or windy drive will see the car going into a spin, or at least going sideways when the rear tires lose traction while the front ones don't.

I've driven with snows only on the front drive wheels ever since I bought my first car in 1976. Never had a problem. I don't rely on snows to keep me from sliding, that's what prudent driving is for IMHO. What I need the snows for is to get me going when summer tires can't.

Sean, I'd add that along with needing snow tires in winter to get you going...you also need them to help you stop in winter conditions. I get that you've been doing it one way for a long time - doesn't make it right. The ONLY reason I see people installing only two winter tires is to save money. For me, saving a few bucks it isn't worth compromising safety of my family and others on the road.

 

[SeanNelson]

Sean, I'd add that along with needing snow tires in winter to get you going...you also need them to help you stop in winter conditions. I get that you've been doing it one way for a long time - doesn't make it right. The ONLY reason I see people installing only two winter tires is to save money. For me, saving a few bucks it isn't worth compromising safety of my family and others on the road.

Yes, it's a money issue and also an issue of convenience. But in 40 years of driving I've never had a problem and that immediate experience of mine is hard to ignore.

I kind of get the impression that a lot of people try to drive in snow the way they drive on bare roads - especially if they have to commute. But I don't drive that way in the snow. We don't get that much of it here in Vancouver, and when it does come it's an unusual situation and I am very careful about it. My biggest fear isn't having to make some abrupt maneuver that's going to test the limits of my tires, it's what all the drivers around me are going to do. I've saved myself on a couple of different occasions by stopping with a huge gap between me and the car in front so that I can ease forward when it becomes obvious that the guy behind me isn't going to be able to stop in time. In my opinion if your tires loose grip in the snow, the problem isn't the tires - it's the way you're driving.

I also have the luxury of deciding not to drive if it looks like it's going to be beyond what I'm comfortable driving in. It's not a case of having to get out there and drive to work in conditions that exceed my or my vehicle's capabilities.

So while I appreciate the advice and the good intentions, I'm afraid it's not going to change my mind.

 

[LeftieBiker]

I know how to drive in Winter - I wouldn't have gotten away with 2 snows for so long if I didn't, and if I didn't make sure the rear tires had an aggressive all season tread. The problem is that you can't always avoid the situations you need to avoid, because they can't always be predicted at home. But hey, maybe your luck will hold...

 

[GetOffYourGas]

We don't get that much of it here in Vancouver, and when it does come it's an unusual situation and I am very careful about it. My biggest fear isn't having to make some abrupt maneuver that's going to test the limits of my tires, it's what all the drivers around me are going to do. I've saved myself on a couple of different occasions by stopping with a huge gap between me and the car in front so that I can ease forward when it becomes obvious that the guy behind me isn't going to be able to stop in time. In my opinion if your tires loose grip in the snow, the problem isn't the tires - it's the way you're driving.

I also have the luxury of deciding not to drive if it looks like it's going to be beyond what I'm comfortable driving in. It's not a case of having to get out there and drive to work in conditions that exceed my or my vehicle's capabilities.

So while I appreciate the advice and the good intentions, I'm afraid it's not going to change my mind.

I would have to disagree with the highlighted opinion. There are time when driving at all will lead to your tires losing grip in the snow. And some of us don't have the luxury of only driving when we are comfortable with conditions. Living in the snowiest city in the US, putting snows on only the front tires is suicide. It's worse than having 4 all-season tires. As Leftie points out, you're much more likely to spin your tail around with uneven grip. Everyone in Central NY knows this, and so it's all or nothing.

I understand your situation is different. You don't get the 124" of snowfall that Syracuse gets. I also understand that nothing any of us write on a forum will change your mind. I'm just adding my own two cents for the sake of other readers.

 

[oilerlord]

So while I appreciate the advice and the good intentions, I'm afraid it's not going to change my mind.

I'm sure you're a safe & careful driver, but others may not be. I'm not looking to get all preachy...just pointing out that you're well respected on this board, and as such, stating that it's essentially "ok" to run with two snow tires may convince others to do the same. In terms of public safety, may be best to keep that particular money saving tip to yourself.

 

[SeanNelson]

I'm not looking to get all preachy...just pointing out that you're well respected on this board, and as such, stating that it's essentially "ok" to run with two snow tires may convince others to do the same. In terms of public safety, may be best to keep that particular money saving tip to yourself.

Well thanks for the compliment and your point is well taken. Be careful out there!

 

[EldRick]

If you are willing to go against all advice from anyone who knows auto handling and use only two snow tires (Really bad idea), you need to put them on the back, where they can keep you out of a spin when braking.
And I hope that your inevitable accident doesn't hurt anyone.

 

[PackardV8]

If you are willing to go against all advice from anyone who knows auto handling and use only two snow tires (Really bad idea), you need to put them on the back, where they can keep you out of a spin when braking.
And I hope that your inevitable accident doesn't hurt anyone.

Yes, only two snow tires on any FWD car is a REALLY BAD IDEA. That one or two very cautious drivers have somehow survived while doing this does not change the universal recommendation of every tire manufacturer and every auto manufacturer to put the same tires on all four.

jack vines

 

[LeftieBiker]

Well, you can safely put two snow tires on the REAR wheels of a FWD car, but I have yet to see anyone actually do that...

 

[SeanNelson]

Well, you can safely put two snow tires on the REAR wheels of a FWD car, but I have yet to see anyone actually do that...

I can't speak for other jurisdictions, but the reason you don't see it here in British Columbia is because it's illegal.

...you must have at least 2 matching winter tires on the primary drive axle even when driving a 4X4 vehicle...

 

[LeftieBiker]

Actually, if you read the label on all season tires, virtually all of them are labelled "Mud & Snow." I don't know if that meets the BC legal requirement, but it might.

 

[SeanNelson]

Actually, if you read the label on all season tires, virtually all of them are labelled "Mud & Snow." I don't know if that meets the BC legal requirement, but it might.

Actually it does, and the stock Bolt tires have the "M+S" rating.