New Bolt Owner

[garlock]

I just had it installed a week ago, it worked ok then it didn't start doing this untill after I got the " Limited propulsion warning"

 

[voodoomaster]

I just had it installed a week ago, it worked ok then it didn't start doing this untill after I got the " Limited propulsion warning"

Owner's ability to troubleshoot EV electrical charging issues is very limited at best. A big part of the circuit possibly giving you the issue you describe could be the level 2 home charger. EV works ok on level 1 connection without throwing a red malfunction light / Connect to level 2/240 V hardware and the EV pops a red flag. The low hanging fruit is the charger tripping your Bolt's charge module circuitry somehow? If you can't eliminate the possibility of the issue being your wall unit then it sounds like a trip to the closest Stealer is in order. Can you try charging with a level 3 DC unit nearby, or another level 2 charger nearby? Did you reset the breaker that delivers the power to your wall unit just for grins? Are there any diagnostic light on the wall unit? Did you park the Bolt inside the garage to warm up the propulsion battery?

 

[ClarD]

I find the heating system a little odd: to really raise the temp in the car, it seems to require cranking the temp up to 75 degrees.

The indicated temperature on the Climate Control seems more like the old slider in a '67 Chevy. You move it where you need it, with no real relationship to the cabin temperature.
I think the air coming out of the vent is at the desired temperature, instead of feeling hotter and blending with the cabin to reach the desired temperature.

Also, I find the Max defrosting functionality to be only barely satisfactory. I have a 2017 Premier.

I find the Max very efficient at clearing the windshield and side windows. I poke the button and turn down the fan speed because I don't really want Max when I ask for Max ;-)
I often turn it off, and then raise the fan speed soon after.
We probably have the heat on all the time, so that might be why Max works so well.

 

[BillM]

Owner's ability to troubleshoot EV electrical charging issues is very limited at best. A big part of the circuit possibly giving you the issue you describe could be the level 2 home charger. EV works ok on level 1 connection without throwing a red malfunction light / Connect to level 2/240 V hardware and the EV pops a red flag. The low hanging fruit is the charger tripping your Bolt's charge module circuitry somehow? If you can't eliminate the possibility of the issue being your wall unit then it sounds like a trip to the closest Stealer is in order. Can you try charging with a level 3 DC unit nearby, or another level 2 charger nearby? Did you reset the breaker that delivers the power to your wall unit just for grins? Are there any diagnostic light on the wall unit? Did you park the Bolt inside the garage to warm up the propulsion battery?

The timing of the problem being at the same time as the charger in stallion is suspicious. I agree that it is hard to tell if a latent problem in vehicle was uncovered or if the charger is misoperating and triggering a problem in the car.

It depends on where there is a warranty in effect where to go first. If the charger or its installation are warranted, I’d go after that first. Have the installer run diagnostics internal to the charger, if it has the ability. If you were provided a manual you may be able to run charger diagnostics yourself. I would check for proper grounding. The 240 volt level-2 unit uses the two 120 volt phases (think of them as splits) of your wiring together to get 240 volts. If there is an imbalance in current draw between the phases it can cause a voltage imbalance, say 118 and 122, there can be a voltage offset at the neutral conductor which is in the middle. Normally neural and ground are tied together and any neutral volt offset is cancelled out. A loose connection somewhere can allow the neutral offset. If that offset reaches the electronics in the vehicle via the charger cable, it could upset the electonics in the vehicle.

If you know someone with a good car disgnostic scan tool, you may be able to find disgnostic codes stored in the car computer caused by the limited propulsion error. I have the Harbor Freight Zurich scan tool and it is able to find diagnostic codes in the Bolt. The Zurich scan tool is a bit expensive but it does a good job. I have also heard the Blue Driver scan tool which works with mobile phones is good. I had a red malfunction light on my Bolt and the scan tool was able to find codes indicating “one side of main contactor stuck shut.” The car was operating normally but the issue is that either the + or - voltage from the main battery was staying on when the car was shut off. I took the diagnostic info to the dealer which they confirmed. The contactor is a large electric relay and because it is part of the battery and drive system it was covered by the warranty.

 

[ClarD]

If there is an imbalance in current draw between the phases it can cause a voltage imbalance, say 118 and 122, there can be a voltage offset at the neutral conductor which is in the middle.

There is no neutral reference in an EVSE. In your example, the EVSE would see 240 volts from hot to hot.

 

[Stanny1]

The indicated temperature on the Climate Control seems more like the old slider in a '67 Chevy. You move it where you need it, with no real relationship to the cabin temperature.
I think the air coming out of the vent is at the desired temperature, instead of feeling hotter and blending with the cabin to reach the desired temperature.



I find the Max very efficient at clearing the windshield and side windows. I poke the button and turn down the fan speed because I don't really want Max when I ask for Max ;-)
I often turn it off, and then raise the fan speed soon after.
We probably have the heat on all the time, so that might be why Max works so well.

Make sure that the yellow light in the temperature control knob is on, or the system will not be automatic. It's press on, press off.

 

[garlock]

The timing of the problem being at the same time as the charger in stallion is suspicious. I agree that it is hard to tell if a latent problem in vehicle was uncovered or if the charger is misoperating and triggering a problem in the car.

It depends on where there is a warranty in effect where to go first. If the charger or its installation are warranted, I’d go after that first. Have the installer run diagnostics internal to the charger, if it has the ability. If you were provided a manual you may be able to run charger diagnostics yourself. I would check for proper grounding. The 240 volt level-2 unit uses the two 120 volt phases (think of them as splits) of your wiring together to get 240 volts. If there is an imbalance in current draw between the phases it can cause a voltage imbalance, say 118 and 122, there can be a voltage offset at the neutral conductor which is in the middle. Normally neural and ground are tied together and any neutral volt offset is cancelled out. A loose connection somewhere can allow the neutral offset. If that offset reaches the electronics in the vehicle via the charger cable, it could upset the electonics in the vehicle.

If you know someone with a good car disgnostic scan tool, you may be able to find disgnostic codes stored in the car computer caused by the limited propulsion error. I have the Harbor Freight Zurich scan tool and it is able to find diagnostic codes in the Bolt. The Zurich scan tool is a bit expensive but it does a good job. I have also heard the Blue Driver scan tool which works with mobile phones is good. I had a red malfunction light on my Bolt and the scan tool was able to find codes indicating “one side of main contactor stuck shut.” The car was operating normally but the issue is that either the + or - voltage from the main battery was staying on when the car was shut off. I took the diagnostic info to the dealer which they confirmed. The contactor is a large electric relay and because it is part of the battery and drive system it was covered by the warranty.

It was wired properly, the red light does not come on anymore, it's in the garage but it won't charge to over 60 miles & it says charging complete!

 

[voodoomaster]

It was wired properly, the red light does not come on anymore, it's in the garage but it won't charge to over 60 miles & it says charging complete!

arrrgh! time to visit the Stealer it sounds like.

 

[garlock]

That's what I'm afraid of & the dealer really doesn't have a tech. that know ev's so he will spend hours trying to find the problem, & who has to pay 100 bucks a hour? !