Using EVExtend on the Bolt EV for emergency 120V up to 1,500 watts

[BoltEV]

EVExtend.com is finally taking pre-orders on its product for the Bolt EV ( https://www.evextend.com/Chevrolet-Bolt-Inverter-Kit.php )

This unit allows for fused, easy Anderson Powerpole connection to a 1,000-1,500 watt inverter for days of emergency power.

I had one on their units in my Chevy Volt and its ease of use (especially when needed in an emergency) was worth its cost!

 

[SparkE]

I am assuming the OP has no commercial relationship (except as a satisfied customer) with the company in question (based on previous posting history). That's always a good thing to point out when mentioning a product on a forum.



The idea of (and discussions about) using a Bolt EV for emergency power (120V) has been discussed before on this forum, here are some links :

12 Volt DC power inverter instead of a generator?
http://www.mychevybolt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8255

Can the Bolt do this?
http://www.mychevybolt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7221

Power available at terminals of 12V battery
https://www.mychevybolt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6082

Bolt as a Powerwall
https://www.mychevybolt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6882

 

[SparkE]

Oh, and personally, if I were *expecting* to use this at least once every 2 years (I've only had ONE power outage of about 45 mins in the past 10 years - I don't live in "storm country") then I would probably have a hefty 12V lead-acid (pickup truck) battery in the garage with the capability/hardware to hook it up in parallel to the Bolt's wimpy 12V acc battery, and hang the inverter off of the "garage battery". Yes, the power is supplied by the DC-to-DC converter from the main propulsion battery, however the 12V battery is the "buffer" for short over-draws of power as well as being, well - the buffer. So having another one to double or triple the capacity and safeguard the car's electric battery would be something anal-retentive, overly cautious me might do. If it were something "OK, just in case - I don't think I'll every use this", then I wouldn't. And if power outages happen a lot, then a 3500W portable generator would probably be a better choice (unless you had to stay quiet because the gas generator would attract the zombies to your house and eat your brains).

If you decide to invest such that your Bolt can be used as an emergency power source, PLEASE do several closely-supervised dry runs with regular (?10 minute?) checks to make sure that the car doesn't turn itself off and completely drain (destroy) the 12V battery(ies). Write the instructions (your checklist) for setting up the Bolt to be a long-term energy source for easy, no-forget reference (just like pilots do).

And there is a "trick" to keeping your Bolt turned on long term (so that it won't auto-shut-off after X minutes) - which is required to run the inverter and your appliances all the time without quickly draining the 12V battery. I am not going to search for the exact steps, but I have read them. One method involved exiting the vehicle through the passenger door instead of the driver's door.

Lastly, hooking an inverter up to the 12V battery so that the Bolt can be a 120V power source isn't just useful for home power outage emergencies. If you go car-camping, you can power a lot of portable appliances - like LED lights or a small TV or just portable device (radio, laptop) chargers - from the inverter.

 

[BoltEV]

I am assuming the OP has no commercial relationship (except as a satisfied customer) with the company in question (based on previous posting history). That's always a good thing to point out when mentioning a product on a forum.

I am assuming that the Moderator has no commercial relationship (except as a satisfied customer) with any company selling lead-acid batteries (based on previous posting history).

I specifically disclosed that my status is that I was a prior customer of the similar product designed for the Chevy Volt.

The importance of this product is the ease of connecting and disconnecting the high amperage inverter (through the use of fused Anderson Powerpoles), which is especially handy during the time of need: power outages, camping, etc.

The company notes on its website that due to the electronics of the Bolt EV’s 12 volt electrical system, that although 1,500 watt inverters can be used for surge requirements, that the steady load should not exceed 1,000 watts.

 

[BoltEV]

Lastly, hooking an inverter up to the 12V battery so that the Bolt can be a 120V power source isn't just useful for home power outage emergencies. If you go car-camping, you can power a lot of portable appliances - like LED lights or a small TV or just portable device (radio, laptop) chargers - from the inverter.

During my time owning the EVExtend unit on my Chevy Volt, I have run a 100' heavy duty extension cord from my garage to my kitchen. During power outages, the inverter would run the refrigerator and many low wattage LED lights.

We have been warned in California of a big earthquake. The point is to keep food refrigerated and cooked on canister-fed WOK-like cooking stoves or camping stoves for up to the five days that we have been warned that such an occurence will render many without power.

Having my Bolt EV fully charged most of the time, will provide this power when needed; instead of the cost and inefficiency of a generator system for such a "rainy" day!

 

[BoltEV]

Given the chaos currently circling the globe, I purchased and installed the EVExtend system for my 2019 Bolt EV and the VertaMax Pure Sine Wave 1500 watt inverter.

I have an 100' extension cord that runs from my garage to my apartment and I tested it with my refrigerator/freezer and it works fine.

I can always add a few LED lights to the system if emergency power extends into the evening.

 

[AyeJay]

And there is a "trick" to keeping your Bolt turned on long term (so that it won't auto-shut-off after X minutes) - which is required to run the inverter and your appliances all the time without quickly draining the 12V battery. I am not going to search for the exact steps, but I have read them. One method involved exiting the vehicle through the passenger door instead of the driver's door.

> The info I found on this specific 'trick' is as follows:

-- "If you need to run it for more than 1-2 hours (when the Bolt will auto turn off), place an elastic band around the shifter, apply the parking brake, shift into neutral and exit via the passenger door."

[Presumably the elastic band or 'bungee' around the shifter is to ensure the Bolt doesn't somehow slip into either forward or reverse gear].



> Other info which was included with the above instructions:

-- "If you need to power your house (or anything else), get a good quality pure sine wave inverter that is (ideally) 2000W+ continous [watts] and connect directly to the 12V battery terminals.

-- The Bolt can provide 130A or about 1600W of continuous power on the 12V system from the main traction battery. This means about 1400W of AC power at the inverters 120V output continuous. Short loads higher than that are OK.

> Notes:
Use #2 gauge copper cable between the 12V battery and the inverter not exceed 2 feet long.
DO NOT connect a 120V load to the inverter before connecting it to the 12V battery in your Bolt.

AJ

 

[Kim Floyd]

Given the chaos currently circling the globe, I purchased and installed the EVExtend system for my 2019 Bolt EV and the VertaMax Pure Sine Wave 1500 watt inverter.

I have an 100' extension cord that runs from my garage to my apartment and I tested it with my refrigerator/freezer and it works fine.

I can always add a few LED lights to the system if emergency power extends into the evening.

Perhaps you all have some ideas that will help me sort out an emergency home power question. I have the EVExtend system on my 2017 Bolt with a 1500 Watt pure sine inverter. Using a 50 foot heavy duty cable the unit provides a peak 640 watts to my home gas furnace which seems to run the furnace air circulation fan and other furnace functions but the ignitor will not engage. The system blows unheated air into the house. The furnace works fine when the 50 foot cable is unplugged from the inverter and plugged into a standard home 120 outlet.

Thanks for any help you can give me.
Regards, Kim

 

[Mike Sweeney]

I’ll bet there is too much loss with 50 feet of cord. It’s probably too small of gauge since most extension cords are very cheaply made. Many are 12awg and you want 10awg for the best hope of it working. That will be two to three times the cost of a cheap 12 gauge cord

 

[ClarD]

Using a 50 foot heavy duty cable the unit provides a peak 640 watts to my home gas furnace which seems to run the furnace air circulation fan and other furnace functions but the ignitor will not engage.

Is there any indicator on the inverter about how much current is being drawn?
I have a 2000 watt inverter that has four LEDs. I ran the gas oven, which has an electric igniter. That drew enough current to light two indicators. I measured it at 400 watts.
I wasn't trying to run a blower motor. I have not tried my home heater at all.

We have a small heater that we can run in the TV room where we stay during power outages.

I use 50 foot 12/3 heavy duty extension cord.

 

[BillM]

Google AI says the igniter draws about 2 to 5 amps at 24 volts. That is at most 120 Watts. The inducer fan and blower motor should together be under 1,000 Watts. I recommend getting a Kill-a-Watt plug-in meter. They’re bout $25 +/- at Harbor Freight and other hardware stores. Check voltage, frequency, and power consumption at the furnace end of the connection cord. You may have to go to a 10 gauge cord if you have not already. The 1,500 Watt inverter should be enough if not too many loads in addition to the furnace are connected.

 

[Joe Cherra]

Perhaps you all have some ideas that will help me sort out an emergency home power question. I have the EVExtend system on my 2017 Bolt with a 1500 Watt pure sine inverter. Using a 50 foot heavy duty cable the unit provides a peak 640 watts to my home gas furnace which seems to run the furnace air circulation fan and other furnace functions but the ignitor will not engage. The system blows unheated air into the house. The furnace works fine when the 50 foot cable is unplugged from the inverter and plugged into a standard home 120 outlet.

Thanks for any help you can give me.
Regards, Kim

What gauge is your HD cable? It appears to me that 50' of cable is creating too much resistance

 

[Kim Floyd]

I’ll bet there is too much loss with 50 feet of cord. It’s probably too small of gauge since most extension cords are very cheaply made. Many are 12awg and you want 10awg for the best hope of it working. That will be two to three times the cost of a cheap 12 gauge cord

Hi Mike, Thanks for looking at this I will try a 25 ft 10/3 in place of the 50 ft 12/3 extension cord and report back in a day or two,

 

[Kim Floyd]

Google AI says the igniter draws about 2 to 5 amps at 24 volts. That is at most 120 Watts. The inducer fan and blower motor should together be under 1,000 Watts. I recommend getting a Kill-a-Watt plug-in meter. They’re bout $25 +/- at Harbor Freight and other hardware stores. Check voltage, frequency, and power consumption at the furnace end of the connection cord. You may have to go to a 10 gauge cord if you have not already. The 1,500 Watt inverter should be enough if not too many loads in addition to the furnace are connected.

Bill, my kill-a-watt meter says we are drawing peak 640 at the inverter when the igniter will not activate and 684 watts at the furnace using a house 120 volt outlet with the igniter activating. I will be trying the 10/3 cord in the next day or so. Thanks for your help.

 

[ClarD]

Google AI says the igniter draws about 2 to 5 amps at 24 volts.

My Payne gas HVAC has a Hot Surface Igniter (HSI) at120 volts AC.

A general Google search says, "Gas furnaces need a small amount of electricity to ignite (about 600 watts)"

 

[summit]

may be the ignitor needs ground connection ? is the EV-extender inverter grounded ?

 

[Kim Floyd]

may be the ignitor needs ground connection ? is the EV-extender inverter grounded ?

Good thought about the ground connection needed for the ignitor. The EV-extender is grounded to the negative pole of the 12 volt Bolt battery. Any ideas on how to test the adequacy of the ground connection?

 

[timc]

Good thought about the ground connection needed for the ignitor. The EV-extender is grounded to the negative pole of the 12 volt Bolt battery. Any ideas on how to test the adequacy of the ground connection?

You can run a ground wire from the inverter grounding screw to earth if necessary. I know the 12V ground is not sufficient to charge a car with the OEM charger.

 

[BillM]

Bill, my kill-a-watt meter says we are drawing peak 640 at the inverter when the igniter will not activate and 684 watts at the furnace using a house 120 volt outlet with the igniter activating. I will be trying the 10/3 cord in the next day or so. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the reply.

It seems like the simple causes are off the table. The consensus seeems to be that one or more items may require a ground connection. Also double check the power frequency on the kill-a-watt meter. If it is more than a few Hz away from either 60 or 50 maybe the furnace computer board could sense that as bad power and refuse to start the igniter. The inducer fan on my furnace is an ECM type motor with about six wires going back to the board. I believe tney do that because they want the furnace to shut off quickly if the draft is incorrect. It is possible the inverter wave shape or frequency is making the ECM or board unhappy even though the power is perfectly fine.

 

[summit]

Good thought about the ground connection needed for the ignitor. The EV-extender is grounded to the negative pole of the 12 volt Bolt battery. Any ideas on how to test the adequacy of the ground connection?

In the US, the Neutral line is grounded/bonded in the main electrical box. Stand alone generator usually has an option to make this bond by the user. Just check continuity with a multi-meter between Neutral & Ground pins.

For example, the stock EVSE "charger" checks for this ground, and will "fault" without it. So to use it for charging directly from a generator/EV-Extender, the Neutral & Grd has to be bonded.