I bought an aftermarket key fob for $39 and just had the key blade cut for $25 for my 2020 Bolt LT. The instructions in the owners handbook for "Programming with Two Recognized Transmitters" seem straightforward, but I've run into two issues:
1. Instruction #1 says to "Place the two recognized transmitters in the backup location with the buttons facing down". Unfortunately, the drawing they provide shows only a single transmitter sitting inside the little raised area at the bottom of the center console. That little raised area outlines the shape of a single transmitter with no space for a second and is defined as the "backup location". in order to have both transmitters resting at the bottom of the console simultaneously, they have to be side by side, with each only partially covering the backup location in the middle. Is that what was intended? And if so, why didn't Chevy provide a drawing that indicated as much, given that the single-transmitter-in-the-backup-location drawing is repeated exactly in the next section describing how to program without two transmitter?
2. Assuming that side-by-side positioning of the two recognized transmitters is OK, I followed the instructions to use the key blade on the new device to turn five times to the unlock position and trigger the DIC to display READY FOR REMOTE 3. At that point I removed the two recognized transmitters, replaced them in the backup location with the new fob with the buttons pointing downward, and pressed "POWER to start the vehicle" as instructed. The problem at that point is that nothing happens, at least from what I can see and hear. As far as I am aware, the vehicle does NOT start with the press of the button. The POWER button continues to pulse blue and there are no indications that all systems have come on-line. The READY FOR REMOTE 3 message continues to be displayed in the DIC, and eventually goes dark as does the pulsing POWER button. Repeated pushing of the POWER button had no effect at all, which was quite disconcerting until I remembered that to exit programming mode I'd have to push the POWER button for at least 12 seconds. The two obvious candidates for why the transmitter is not being programmed are (a) the problem with positioning the two recognized transmitters described in Question #1 and (b) the aftermarket key fob is defective or not correct for my vehicle. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Nick in Palm Springs
1. Instruction #1 says to "Place the two recognized transmitters in the backup location with the buttons facing down". Unfortunately, the drawing they provide shows only a single transmitter sitting inside the little raised area at the bottom of the center console. That little raised area outlines the shape of a single transmitter with no space for a second and is defined as the "backup location". in order to have both transmitters resting at the bottom of the console simultaneously, they have to be side by side, with each only partially covering the backup location in the middle. Is that what was intended? And if so, why didn't Chevy provide a drawing that indicated as much, given that the single-transmitter-in-the-backup-location drawing is repeated exactly in the next section describing how to program without two transmitter?
2. Assuming that side-by-side positioning of the two recognized transmitters is OK, I followed the instructions to use the key blade on the new device to turn five times to the unlock position and trigger the DIC to display READY FOR REMOTE 3. At that point I removed the two recognized transmitters, replaced them in the backup location with the new fob with the buttons pointing downward, and pressed "POWER to start the vehicle" as instructed. The problem at that point is that nothing happens, at least from what I can see and hear. As far as I am aware, the vehicle does NOT start with the press of the button. The POWER button continues to pulse blue and there are no indications that all systems have come on-line. The READY FOR REMOTE 3 message continues to be displayed in the DIC, and eventually goes dark as does the pulsing POWER button. Repeated pushing of the POWER button had no effect at all, which was quite disconcerting until I remembered that to exit programming mode I'd have to push the POWER button for at least 12 seconds. The two obvious candidates for why the transmitter is not being programmed are (a) the problem with positioning the two recognized transmitters described in Question #1 and (b) the aftermarket key fob is defective or not correct for my vehicle. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Nick in Palm Springs
. I don’t live where it’s that cold. But at 80% I get about 170 ish miles. About 230 at 100%. And it varies a bit between how aggressive I am and stuff like AC. The worst was going to a ren fair up in the mountains. But I gained a lot coming back down. So to segue into your last. Yes. Go full regen. Your battery will thank you 
