Level 2 on the cheap

[UpRider]

My situation was probably pretty favorable, but I was able to get Level 2 charging from my house built in 1972 for about $260.
Here's how it worked.
I have an unfinished basement laundry room adjacent to the ground level garage. In the basement, I happen to have a gas dryer, although the dryer had an unused 240V outlet behind it. I was able to move the 240V outlet box to the joists closer to the garage. Then I was able to cut a hole between the lower garage wall into the basement. Ran the cable thru the hole and then connected the NEMA 10-30 plug to 240V and the other end to the BOLT and off we go. Total cost - $260 for the cable from Amazon + $6 for cable hanger clamps and screws.
If you have this situation, but have an electric dryer, it would probably be cheaper to hire a plumber to run a gas line to the dryer, replace the electric dryer with a gas dryer (energy cost savings here too), and repurpose the 240V box. This would certainly be cheaper than having an electrician install a new 240V circuit from your service panel to the garage. In fact, the electrician might recommend a new upgraded service panel to accommodate the new amperage load. But using my suggestion, there is NO additional amperage load, because the former dryer load no longer exists.

 

[LeftieBiker]

There are also devices that let you choose between two adjacent outlets on the same 240 volt circuit. IIRC it even has an automatic switching option in one case. That lets you keep the electric dryer and charge the car when the dryer is off, and vice versa.

 

[DucRider]

My situation was probably pretty favorable, but I was able to get Level 2 charging from my house built in 1972 for about $260.
Here's how it worked.
I have an unfinished basement laundry room adjacent to the ground level garage. In the basement, I happen to have a gas dryer, although the dryer had an unused 240V outlet behind it. I was able to move the 240V outlet box to the joists closer to the garage. Then I was able to cut a hole between the lower garage wall into the basement. Ran the cable thru the hole and then connected the NEMA 10-30 plug to 240V and the other end to the BOLT and off we go. Total cost - $260 for the cable from Amazon + $6 for cable hanger clamps and screws.
If you have this situation, but have an electric dryer, it would probably be cheaper to hire a plumber to run a gas line to the dryer, replace the electric dryer with a gas dryer (energy cost savings here too), and repurpose the 240V box. This would certainly be cheaper than having an electrician install a new 240V circuit from your service panel to the garage. In fact, the electrician might recommend a new upgraded service panel to accommodate the new amperage load. But using my suggestion, there is NO additional amperage load, because the former dryer load no longer exists.

If I'm reading this correctly, you passed the power cord thru a hole into a separate room/different floor. This type of install violates almost all electrical codes and would not pass an inspection.

If you're the "codes and rules are for weenies" type, then go for it.

The proper way to do this is to convert the existing outlet box into a junction box. Run wires from the existing dryer outlet box to a new box in the garage. Put a blank cover plate on the old outlet box and install the receptacle in the new box. Not much more money (<$5 most likely) and a safe installation that meets codes.

If you don't know why the installation described by the OP is unsafe, you probably shouldn't be doing electrical work.

 

[Geo]

In Los Angeles, the building code also requires a quick disconnect box near the charger.

 

[UpRider]

QUOTE If I'm reading this correctly, you passed the power cord thru a hole into a separate room/different floor. ENDQUOTE
No, it's the charger cord. It is not permanent and I would remove and keep it if I sold the house.

 

[TimBolt]

I’m confused by your post.

What cable did you purchase from Amazon for $260?

Did you buy an EVSE, or are you using the Level-1 cord that came with the Bolt?

 

[cosmacelf]

I’m confused by your post.

What cable did you purchase from Amazon for $260?

Did you buy an EVSE, or are you using the Level-1 cord that came with the Bolt?

I'm guessing he meant he bought this EVSE:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxx-16-Portable-Electric-Vehicle-mounting/dp/B01LFW1OK6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510675321&sr=8-5&keywords=EVSE

 

[TimBolt]

I’m confused by your post.

What cable did you purchase from Amazon for $260?

Did you buy an EVSE, or are you using the Level-1 cord that came with the Bolt?

I'm guessing he meant he bought this EVSE:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxx-16-Portable-Electric-Vehicle-mounting/dp/B01LFW1OK6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510675321&sr=8-5&keywords=EVSE

Thanks, that makes sense. I couldn’t imagine what “cable” would cost that much.

For an even cheaper option, the standard Bolt L1 EVSE can be plugged into a 220v outlet using an inexpensive adapter. Charge times would probably be about three times that of a L2 32-amp EVSE, but the cost is negligible compared to the typical EVSE install.

My Clipper Creek HCS-40 was about $900 installed, and it was only that cheap because there’s a licensed electrician in the family, so I got the install at half price.

 

[winterescape]

Thanks, that makes sense. I couldn’t imagine what “cable” would cost that much.

For an even cheaper option, the standard Bolt L1 EVSE can be plugged into a 220v outlet using an inexpensive adapter. Charge times would probably be about three times that of a L2 32-amp EVSE, but the cost is negligible compared to the typical EVSE install.

My Clipper Creek HCS-40 was about $900 installed, and it was only that cheap because there’s a licensed electrician in the family, so I got the install at half price.

true, given that it only a 16Amp EVSE the stock Bolt 12Amp EVSE would have been a good option for simply the cost of an adapter