L2 Chargers For The Home

[Boson]

Hi folks, new EV owner here, just got my Bolt the other day. Looking at L2 chargers and having some trouble picking one. I was having trouble finding another thread with this info, so if this is a duplicate question please point me to the right place.

GM recommends the Aerovironment EVSE-RE
(http://www.evsolutions.com/blog/general-motors-selects-aerovironment-evse-rs-as-official-home-charging-station-for-2017-chevrolet-bo) Have people used this one and what is the general impression of it?

I was also looking at the ChargePoint Home (https://www.chargepoint.com/products/home/) and it looks pretty good to me. I've also heard the Juicebox is good (https://emotorwerks.com/store-juicebox-ev-charging-stations) but honestly I prefer the design of the ChargePoint unit. I like the idea of the connectivity of the ChargePoint unit, but that might not be a big deal, because do you really need to monitor your charging level when you are in the garage?

Has anyone used the ChargePoint or the Juicebox? Happy to hear everything about what is good and what sucks about these units. Anyone recommend anything else instead of these 2?

 

[Silence]

The JuiceBox units are not UL listed. This could present a problem for some State rebate/refund/credit programs. I've also read that there could be potential insurance issues in the unlikely event that the box malfunctions and burns your garage down. I've read these things on the internet so you know what that is worth. The JuceBox has no indicator lights. They general are not needed, but can be useful trying fix an error. On the other hand, the JuiceBox is very competitively priced and well rated. I initially purchased a JuiceBox, but returned it because it was not UL listed. I purchased their (eMotorWerks) WiFi enabled ClipperCreek HCS-40, JuiceNet® Edition model. It is UL listed, WiFi enabled, ClipperCreek is very well rated, and at the time there wasn't much of a price premium over the Chargepoint models. Some people say that you don't need the WiFi enabled models because your car or its app will give you the same level of control and info. I haven't found that to be the case. I believe the EV JuiceNet app gives me more control and data than what the Volt & myChevrolet app provide. The Chargepoint is well rated on Amazon, UL Listed, the best looking EVSE out there, and I like the Chargepoint app.

https://emotorwerks.com/store-juicebox-ev-charging-stations/juicenet-devices/product/listing

 

[Eastocean]

I have had a Schneider charger for 3.5 years for my Leaf. I ordered it from Home Depot , and hired an electrician to run a 30 amp line to the garage. At the time, the charger was half the price of the others on the market, and we got a tax credit on top of it.

The idea of a charger is to pump electricity into your car. Think about what you really need. Even though i have a delayed start function on it,, the car also has a built-in function to do it for off-peak rates. Think about what you really want to know from the charger. Here, almost all of the chargers I might use are ChargePoint, so a home ChargePoint system would allow me to collected charging data in one place. If one cared or needed it.

 

[like2bike]

I like my Schneider EVlink. As long as it gets good reviews any L2 is probably OK. You should think about the physical design. For me it was handy to have separate cable holder instead of using the case for a cable holder as some unit do. I like that the EVlink has plenty indicator lights but don't think any of them of all that necessary. I think car gives you plenty of indications.

Please don't call an L1 or L2 EVSE a "Charger". The charger is in the EV. L1 and L2 EVSE only connect 120 VAC or 240 VAC to the EV, with many safety features. Only L3 fast chargers provide power to charge the battery directly. They are chargers but the EV also monitors the battery and communicates with the charger.

 

[user 124]

The charger is in your car. The Bolt EV has a 7KW charger that converts AC from your electric vehicle supply equipment (EVSE) into DC and controls the charge rate of the battery. This thread is about EVSEs - pretty simple devices that connect to household AC on 1 side and to EVs (via a J1722 plug) on the other.

The only charger that you plug into a Bolt is a DC fast charter (DCFC). Those units supply DC to the battery and regulate its flow.

 

[EldRick]

https://www.evseadapters.com/products/16-30a-adjustable-120-240v-charger-evse

120/240v, adjustable amperage, with four different plug-adapters and a useful display. Hang it on the wall or take it with you on a trip for those times when there are no working DCFC stations nearby. Under $400 depending on adapter chosen.

 

[CGameProgrammer]

Agreed, EVSEs are very simple and are not technically chargers. I bought a hardwired ClipperCreek for outdoor use; it's very simple but reportedly very reliable and that's what I care about. I do not care about WiFi features for home charging; I only find that conceivably useful with DCFC.

 

[LeftieBiker]

Clipper Creek is the best brand for rugged simplicity. They are made in the US and have a three year warranty.

 

[Maxters]

I went with the Juicebox 40 pro and it works great.

I also bought the pack of adapters so I can run it off a dryer 30A circuit (at 25A) until I get a plug on my 40A line.

I also like the ability to control and track the charging.

 

[Pigwich]

As stated earlier, EVSEs are stupid simple in their operation and construction. It's just a big switch that goes in between the 220 from the house and the end of the charge cable. A glorified hairdryer plug with a ground fault trip. Current ratings are simply the rating of the contactor, and the thickness of the wire. Proper torquing of the lugs on the contactor is a big deal, and I've heard of plenty of problems on all chargers where the wires to the contactor got too hot because of poor attachment. As far as SEEING problems, the only one I've experienced was on a swanky Aerovironment unit where the break-away spade connectors corroded and smoked up good. The car was displeased that it was being told that it was getting power by the charger, but in fact it wasn't because the wires had melted inside the EVSE. Tripped a "check engine" light but it was a false alarm.

Bottom line is, any charger can blow up, most don't, and all ONE of the internal power handling components are pretty much created equal. I'd say look for something that can take abuse and has a good cable and a durable handle. If you want a rebate, you should probably buy a big brand charger. If you want features, buy a Juicebox or MAYBE OpenEVSE, although OpenEVSE is a pain in the ass to build, but if you're the maker type, it's fun and you can very easily service it should the need arise. I got an OpenEVSE and used some of my own stuff I had laying around and have been fairly happy.

And as for what a charger is capable of? Well, it's the car that actually determines how many amps are drawn. The EVSE just sends out a signal out to the car asking it to not draw any more than...oh... 15 or 30 or 40 amps, or whatever the setting is. The idea is, if the charge cable uses thin, cheap internal wires, then the charger can tell the car that it really should only draw 15 amps, and everybody is fine.

I will say this - My beef with the OpenEVSE would be the bad screw terminals on the low voltage signals and voltage checking cieruit. They're just not the best thing and you have to be careful and neat (same goes for the wiring on your home stereo too though) and another OpenEVSE beef is the low voltage power supply on the logic board - It tends to have trouble starting up from time to time. I think it's probably a bit undersized.

Good luck, don't' spend a lot of money. It's not worth it.

 

[dan2112]

+1 for Clipper Creek. Made in USA super easy to install (two screws into a wall stud) and very reliable. No bells and whistles, no timers, etc. I have had a HCS-40 (hardwired) for three years already and not a single issue - not one. I charge 3 times a week at home.

Dan

 

[roundpeg]

Good luck, don't' spend a lot of money. It's not worth it.

I definitely went with this philosophy and purchased the basic JuiceBox unit. The other advantage is, it a plug-in, not hard-wired. So not only was I able to have my electrician install the plug before it arrived, I can (at least theoretically) pull it off the wall and throw it in the car.

 

[Boson]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll keep it simple and not get something too expensive. The plug in Juicebox has some appeal so I'll look into that one more.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll keep it simple and not get something too expensive. The plug in Juicebox has some appeal so I'll look into that one more.

Another happy Juicebox user here. (Lurker at this forum for now with the intent to buy a Bolt when the lease on my Leaf is up in a few months).

 

[jjr]

The JuiceBox units are not UL listed. This could present a problem for some State rebate/refund/credit programs. I've also read that there could be potential insurance issues in the unlikely event that the box malfunctions and burns your garage down. I've read these things on the internet so you know what that is worth.

I have a JuiceBox, so far so good

This comparison chart lists all of the North American available EVSEs, and their warranty and UL ratings:

http://www.myelectriccarforums.com/electric-vehicle-charger/

 

[Airbesar]

Different local governments probably handle home EVSEs differently. Mine has a long list of criteria, not overly difficult to meet but bothersome, for a permit for an EVSE installation. However, when I talked to an inspector, I learned that using a portable EVSE meant you only had to get a permit for installing the 220 line and outlet, a much simpler matter. YMMV

 

[summit]

I have a GE EVSE from HomeDepot. The one feature I appreciate is the ability to configure maximum current. Since most dryer plugs are wired with 10-3 gage which really can safely drawn at 24A, not the rated 30A. The Bolt can pull 30A (7kw) so you can't just repurpose existing dryer line. But at 24A (5+kw) is ok.

 

[LeftieBiker]

The Bolt can pull 30A (7kw) so you can't just repurpose existing dryer line. But at 24A (5+kw) is ok.

If someone wants to use an existing dryer circuit, all they have to do is either get an EVSE that can be set to 24A as you said, or get something like a Clipper Creek HCS/LCS 25 or 30. They rate their EVSEs by the size breaker needed, not by actual output.

 

[Maxters]

The Bolt can pull 30A (7kw) so you can't just repurpose existing dryer line. But at 24A (5+kw) is ok.

If someone wants to use an existing dryer circuit, all they have to do is either get an EVSE that can be set to 24A as you said, or get something like a Clipper Creek HCS/LCS 25 or 30. They rate their EVSEs by the size breaker needed, not by actual output.

Juicebox has their own and a Clipper Creek they sell. I have the Juicebox 40Pro (I like the wifi monitoring) .

I also use the dryer outlet (30A But i have the Juicebox set to 25A as to not overload it) with an adapter.

I did this until I can put a plug on my 40A circuit that used to be for our hottub.

I have been happy with the JB40, best benefit is the long cord, as for now it's running from the back of the garage out the front and to the car, parked out front.

 

[SpaceMan]

I have been using an aeroVironment l2 charger for the past 3 years with no issues... also (if it matters) their customer service was top notch.