I love my Bolt!

[oilerlord]

Oilerlord, you sound like any number of people who point at me and say that I am the road hazard for staying within 10% of the posted speed limit. That means I go 71-72 in a 65mph zone (most of the highways in upstate NY). I'm sorry, but I will not be bullied into driving 80-90mph just because "everyone else is doing it". The truth is, not everyone else is doing it. I pass plenty of people driving 72 in a 65. If everyone bought your lie, we'd all drive 80mph and the roads would be far more dangerous than if we all drove 70mph.

And yes, I have driven outside of NY. It's not as different as it's made out to be. The stretch of I-10 from Phoenix to LA is the same deal - driving ~10% over I am not a road hazard. It's the people who are driving 25-30 over that are the hazards.

Excuse, me Brian...exactly what LIE are you accusing me of? Please be specific.

I'm not asking you or anyone to exceed the speed limit...and I don't disagree that people driving 25-30 over the limit are hazards - I'm only pointing out that people driving 25-30 under the limit that are ALSO hazards. It's the differential in speeds that causes a lot of accidents, and it works both ways.

I may go the minum speed limit and that is 45 mph throghtout the United States of America on all interstates and highways.

Just so everyone knows the maximum speed on any interstate or highway in California is 65 unless otherwise posted 70 ! Anything in excess of 80 is considered reckless driving. The maximum speed for truckers and cars pulling trailers is 55. These are posted and in the law. The speeding that goes to and from Las Vegas is illegal and the reason for horrific accidents.

I was driving north on the I-15 back to Canada. Posted speed limit for most of the trip is 80 mph. Though driving the minimum 45 mph may be legal, it isn't necessarily safe for your and others on the road. The fact is, you're NOT pulling a trailer - you're playing a stupid hypermiling game. If someone comes over a blind hill at 80 and you're suddenly in front of him poking along at 45, he may not have enough time decelerate, or may swerve into another car to avoid you. Regardless of who's wrong or right...you're causing it to happen and as another member pointed out - you may indeed be at-fault in that scenario. I don't think a judge is going to buy "I was trying for 9 miles/kWh" as a valid defense argument.

Geezus, guys. I'm not against driving for efficiency because I do it myself. I'm only asking you to do it safely.

 

[polbear]

I want everyone to know I am not promoting dangerous driving. I have been driving for 50 years throughout the United States, Canada and Mexico. I am well aware of the laws and follow them. The worst drivers are now in California but reckless driving is rampant throughout the United States trucks and cars are included in this. I get off the intrastate or highway if i think I am a hazard. Please let this go I was simply giving pointers on my driving style.

 

[GetOffYourGas]

Excuse, me Brian...exactly what LIE are you accusing me of? Please be specific.

I'm not asking you or anyone to exceed the speed limit...and I don't disagree that people driving 25-30 over the limit are hazards - I'm only pointing out that people driving 25-30 under the limit that are ALSO hazards. It's the differential in speeds that causes a lot of accidents, and it works both ways.

I apologize for the terse wording. I have been told that those driving at or near posted speed limits should "speed up or get off the road", in pretty much those exact words. I had thought that was what you were saying as well. However, re-reading what you actual wrote, I see that you did specifically say that driving 25MPH below the speed limit is a hazard. With that I agree 100%, and apologize for the misunderstanding.

And now back to your regularly scheduled Loving the Bolt...

 

[oilerlord]

I want everyone to know I am not promoting dangerous driving. I have been driving for 50 years throughout the United States, Canada and Mexico. I am well aware of the laws and follow them.

While I'd assume you are a safe driver, this statement is in conflict with that:

I may go the minum speed limit and that is 45 mph throghtout the United States of America on all interstates and highways.

While you may do that...the bigger question is should you?

You've no doubt found that the Bolt's drag coefficient of 0.32 makes it tough to achieve 330.1 miles @ 65 mph, so you're driving 45 to make it happen, and posting big mpkWh numbers to that end. Rather than inferring that it's OK to drive 45 on an interstate, how about "For best efficiency - avoid highways".

 

[oilerlord]

Excuse, me Brian...exactly what LIE are you accusing me of? Please be specific.

I'm not asking you or anyone to exceed the speed limit...and I don't disagree that people driving 25-30 over the limit are hazards - I'm only pointing out that people driving 25-30 under the limit that are ALSO hazards. It's the differential in speeds that causes a lot of accidents, and it works both ways.

I apologize for the terse wording. I have been told that those driving at or near posted speed limits should "speed up or get off the road", in pretty much those exact words. I had thought that was what you were saying as well. However, re-reading what you actual wrote, I see that you did specifically say that driving 25MPH below the speed limit is a hazard. With that I agree 100%, and apologize for the misunderstanding.

And now back to your regularly scheduled Loving the Bolt...

No sweat, Brian...I just didn't know where you were coming from. We're cool.

I think the OP should change the topic from "I love my Bolt" to "I love hypermiling my Bolt". From experience, I used to play those games too...always going for a new personal best range number. The problem is, in order to continually beat your personal best; you start looking for ways that push the envelope of personal & public safety - like drafting semis, taking corners way too fast, and yes...driving way too slow to the point of becoming a road hazard. Beating the range record, and competing with others online can become an addiction that at some point you need to ask yourself if it's worth it or not.

 

[polbear]

Now you are mixing my words! I go 55 and get on average 330! If you want to challenge me to a test let me know where and when. I drive a good part of the time in California and will keep driving the way I do. I drive to save the environment not to save fossel fule like most people do.

 

[polbear]

Tip of the day number 5
Since Chevy installs the best EV specific Michelin tires. Make sure you check tire pressure every 2 weeks and just fill the tires to the factory requirements. Rotate the tires every two months. Have alignments every 6 months or when you think you may have hit something.

 

[GetOffYourGas]

Tip of the day number 5
Since Chevy installs the best EV specific Michelin tires. Make sure you check tire pressure every 2 weeks and just fill the tires to the factory requirements. Rotate the tires every two months. Have alignments every 6 months or when you think you may have hit something.

That's a lot of maintenance. I can see checking the tire pressure every two weeks. That's easy and can help prevent a problem. But I have never rotated tires every two months. I just rotate every 6, which happens to correspond to swapping between summer and winter tires. Alignments? I probably do that less often than I should, but 6 months seems excessive.

 

[polbear]

Well since there is no real maintenance on these cars and the expense of the great tires I think it is worth it.

 

[oilerlord]

Now you are mixing my words! I go 55 and get on average 330!

No, only quoting them.

The EPA based the Bolt's 238 mile range rating on several test cycles. One of them includes a highway cycle:

The EPA test cycle averaged 48 mph. You're driving at 55 mph, and getting an average of 330 miles. In essence, you're driving faster than the EPA highway test cycle, but still claiming to beat the EPA range number by nearly 40%.

OK then.

https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/fe_test_schedules.shtml

 

[polbear]

I am a man of science and I cannot tell you why but the numbers I am achieving are 55 and 330 vary consistently. At the end of the day it works for me.

 

[ScooterCT]

One of the previous posters mentioned "there's almost no maintenance on a Bolt". My instinct was to cry BS. But these days you can fact check with a simple Google search. Doggone if that poster wasn't spot on accurate. There's pretty much no scheduled maintenance. I'm seriously impressed. If this is the EV future, I'm all for it.

https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2017/Chevrolet/BOLT%20EV/Maintenance%20Schedule.pdf

 

[polbear]

Yes, vary little maintenance and inexpensive as well. I had the Michilian Tires insured at America's Tires for $17 each so they Rotate, rebalance and check the air valves all for free. They also check air for everyone for free. In addition, if one of the tires is damaged they fix it or replace it for free. If you consider all the maintenance you pay over the life of a gas fule car the difference makes the Bolt the most reasonably priced car on the road. I have a Prius 2 and it is 11 years old it has cost approximately $28000.00 over those years. I feel from what I save on the Bolt I will be able to replace the battery pack and not pay any more then I would have paid on a gas fule car. Hey I guess this was tip of the day number 6!

 

[boltage]

You've no doubt found that the Bolt's drag coefficient of 0.32 makes it tough to achieve 330.1 miles @ 65 mph, so you're driving 45 to make it happen, and posting big mpkWh numbers to that end. Rather than inferring that it's OK to drive 45 on an interstate, how about "For best efficiency - avoid highways".

Sometimes, one is traffic-limited to about 45-55mph or lower on freeways that have speed limits of 65mph. Unfortunately, this is getting more common as traffic congestion increases. (But it does mean better highway economy, in both electric and non-electric vehicles, although non-electric vehicles get worse if congestion increases to the point of requiring frequent stopping or driving in low gears.)

 

[oilerlord]

If you consider all the maintenance you pay over the life of a gas fule car the difference makes the Bolt the most reasonably priced car on the road. I have a Prius 2 and it is 11 years old it has cost approximately $28000.00 over those years. I feel from what I save on the Bolt I will be able to replace the battery pack and not pay any more then I would have paid on a gas fule car. Hey I guess this was tip of the day number 6!

A $40,000 EV is the most "reasonably priced" car on the road? Where does leasing a new Fiat 500e @ $59/month, or buying a very low mileage EV for under $10,000 fit in that equation? As you claim to be a man of science, please run us through your math.

Tip #7: Use spellcheck.

 

[sparkyps]

The Bolt isn't a $40k car. In California it is an under $25k car after discounts, rebates and tax credit.

In Colorado it is an under $22K car even without any dealer discounts.

WIth the obvious disclaimer that not everyone qualifies for the tax credits.

 

[oilerlord]

The Bolt isn't a $40k car. In California it is an under $25k car after discounts, rebates and tax credit.

In Colorado it is an under $22K car even without any dealer discounts.

WIth the obvious disclaimer that not everyone qualifies for the tax credits.

That disclaimer doesn't change the price of the car, only what some may pay for it after subsidies.

So let's be clear: It's still a $40,000 car + tax.

It doesn't matter if your dad gives you up to $10,000 towards the price of the car, or the taxpayers do. The price is the same.

 

[GetOffYourGas]

That disclaimer doesn't change the price of the car, only what some may pay for it after subsidies.

So let's be clear: It's still a $40,000 car + tax.

Semantics. If anyone in CA can buy a Bolt for $25k, then it is a $25k car. Moreover, it doesn't *feel* like a $40k car.

 

[oilerlord]

I see...only semantics. So if your dad buys it for you, the car didn't cost anything.

This forum is like herding cats.

 

[sparkyps]

The Bolt isn't a $40k car. In California it is an under $25k car after discounts, rebates and tax credit.

In Colorado it is an under $22K car even without any dealer discounts.

WIth the obvious disclaimer that not everyone qualifies for the tax credits.

That disclaimer doesn't change the price of the car, only what some may pay for it after subsidies.

So let's be clear: It's still a $40,000 car + tax.

It doesn't matter if your dad gives you up to $10,000 towards the price of the car, or the taxpayers do. The price is the same.

Discounts change the price of the car.

If my dad only offered me $10k for a car if it was a BEV then that makes BEVs $10k cheaper for me.

Only the bottom line matters to me. If Bolt has a bottom line of $25k I don't care in the slightest if the MSRP was $25k or $125k.

I have some $100 bills I am selling for $125. My dad is offering a $45 rebate for each $100 bill you buy. How many would you like to buy? Are you going to tell me they are too expensive because they cost $125?