sgt1372 said:thorin78 said:Thanks. So basically, don't focus on the monthly payment (that's what the trade-in and down payment affect ultimately), although I was more targeting for that. They gave me $4339 off the MSRP, so $2500 CCR and $1839 discount.
My only issue is that they're screwing around w/ the calculation by adding back the 1st month payment, taxes and fees back to the cost of capital and increasing the monthly payment. I would much prefer paying all fees upfront and not being taxed on the deduction. I don't know if that's doable.
Not sure what "deduction" you think you're being taxed on.
Only thing that's being taxed in my deal is the monthly lease payment, which I think is a rip off but it's just an alternate way for the state to get "paid"; they'd otherwise get the sales tax up front on the full sales price of the car when purchased.
The monthly payment matters in terms of cash flow but it's the total cost of the lease over it's life which is usually the best way to compare lease deals of the same duration.
A fairer comparison of leases between people w/different sales tax (which differ even w/in a state) would be to deduct the cost of the sales taxes paid on lease payments over the life of the lease.
In that case, my total lease cost would "only" be $5000 (trade-in) minus $3k (rebates still due) plus ($282x35)=$11,870; the 1st payment was included in the $7.5k upfront costs of my deal that were paid for with the trade-in and GM's $2.5k factory rebate.
Without the rebates and sales tax, my deal would be about the same in dollars as yours, but you got car w/a sticker price $3k more than mine. So, I think you did very well, even though your monthly payments are $53 more per month than mine.
If you can take advantage of any other rebates (as I can), your deal would look even better. Again, congrats!
Thanks. I'm happy to get some validation on a good deal.
This is what I'm confused by, excluding all down payments and trade ins
Normally
MSRP: 43510
discount: 2500 + 1700 = 4200
Net Cap Cost = 39310
Residual = 26106
Base cost = 366
interest = 47
taxes = 28
monthly = 442
Drive off Fees = 1829 (1387 w/o 1st month payment)
Acquisition = 595
Docs - 80
DMV HOV = 29
Taxes = 325.50
registration = 358
1st month payment = 442
What dealer is doing
MSRP = 43510
discount = 2500 + 1700 + X
adding drive off fees = 1387.5 plus 1st month payment (pick your what you want to pay)
Net capital cost = 40698 - X +1st month payment
Residual = 26106
base monthly = 405
interest = 48
tax = 31
monthly cost = 484
So you can't do a monthly rate of $484, because adding that 1st month rate increases the net cap cost and therefore changes the monthly payment again. To $499/month.
If you want to keep the monthly payment at 484, something else has to move. In this case, the X would have to move to $540 ((499 - 484) * 36 months)
Since the dealer isn't going to give you 540 because they you didn't "agree" on that, they'll make you put that money as down payment.
But what's more "likely" is that they'll say that ok, it's $499/month, and they'll move the discount "X" up to $39 to account for the fact that they are making more money over 3 years. But remember, their selling point is that it's $0 down literally. And you walk out w/ a car payment of $499/month
Increasing X also increases the drive off fees that's increasing the net cap cost. It's a huge circular reference in excel.
So if you wanted to get back to $442/month, here are the numbers
your "discount" has to increase by $1980. That's your down payment.
If my calculation is right, you pay an extra $153 over 3 years.
I know it's not much, but it's money I believe they're pocketing when it's "unnecessary"
Comparing the down payments from "normally" to what dealer is doing, $1829 vs $1980, you're putting more down to get back to the original monthly payment that's pure.
When I said this to the dealer, they said this is what they always do. And I'm thinking if what I consider "normal" is really not normal.