"Full" battery levels dropping daily

[rocstar]

Maybe I'm just a nervous newbie (I've had the car less than a month, 874 miles), but I'm not feeling great about my range right now. After a reasonably cold week (but certainly not unusual in New York), my fully charged range is nowshowing 152 miles. I have a 52 mile (roundtrip) commute every day, most of which is on the highway. I try to stay around 65mph, though I drift higher occasionally. When it's in the teens (degrees F), I've been wearing my hat and gloves in the car, and using the heated seats and steering wheel, but I still need to set the heat at 68-70 in order to not be shivering. My average efficiency according to the trip meter for the last week (and since my last full charge) was 2.6 mi/kwh. On the "Energy Detail" screen, Driving and Accessories used 79%, climate settings 18% and battery conditioning 3%.

I don't have a level 2 charger yet, and I was only just barely able to make it through the week charging nightly in the garage. Then I had to leave it for nearly 2 days to charge back up to full. Is this the best I can expect, given my situation?

 

[GetOffYourGas]

Your situation is normal, rocstar. I'm only getting 1.8 miles/kWh lately. That's roughly 100 miles on a full charge. A large part of that is my usage - I drive very short distances, so climate control heating up the car takes a huge percentage of my battery usage.

With 52 miles/day and only L1 charging overnight, you are going to be tight. You may get 10-12 kWh into the battery in 10 hours. At 2.6 miles/kWh, that's only 26-31 miles, or half of your commute. You're building up a deficit every day to (hopefully) be made up over the weekend.

I don't know your home situation, but you say you have a garage. Any chance you could run a 240V circuit to the garage? Charging at the full 7kW would completely flip your situation. You would easily recharge the car every night, and could even pre-heat before unplugging. Might be worth getting an electrician over to run you a quote.

 

[WetEV]

I don't have a level 2 charger yet, and I was only just barely able to make it through the week charging nightly in the garage.

Do make sure you are charging at 12 Amps. The default for L1 is 8 Amps.

Other than that, L2 charging will make it much better. Even if not at the full 32 Amps.

My new house has the L2 station close to the breaker box. Some complications. Cost to install was $320.70.

 

[SmokingRubber]

Maybe I'm just a nervous newbie (I've had the car less than a month, 874 miles), but I'm not feeling great about my range right now. After a reasonably cold week (but certainly not unusual in New York), my fully charged range is nowshowing 152 miles. I have a 52 mile (roundtrip) commute every day, most of which is on the highway. I try to stay around 65mph, though I drift higher occasionally. When it's in the teens (degrees F), I've been wearing my hat and gloves in the car, and using the heated seats and steering wheel, but I still need to set the heat at 68-70 in order to not be shivering. My average efficiency according to the trip meter for the last week (and since my last full charge) was 2.6 mi/kwh. On the "Energy Detail" screen, Driving and Accessories used 79%, climate settings 18% and battery conditioning 3%.

I don't have a level 2 charger yet, and I was only just barely able to make it through the week charging nightly in the garage. Then I had to leave it for nearly 2 days to charge back up to full. Is this the best I can expect, given my situation?

You have every right to be nervous! I would estimate 152 mile range is going to be typical. You're getting 2.6 mi/kwh, and I'm getting 2.9 mi/kwh in California. It doesn't get that cold here, so that's likely the difference.

Long term, 110v charging overnight isn't your solution. I too have a 50 mile round trip commute and it's not uncommon to tack on an extra 10 miles to that running around town. The KEY to successful EV ownership is nailing your charging scenario. Install an app called PlugShare. This will list all the plugs nearby including paid and free stations. I'm lucky enough to have a Lowe's about a mile from my work so I plug in there every other day and either walk or get a coworker to give me a ride. That's been working well for a month now, but today is actually the day the electricians are installing a 240v plug for me by the back door here at work. I already have a ChargePoint Home unit on the wall and ready to be plugged in. Prior to today though, I've had to scope out ALL the plugs near my work and near home. Some charge a little and some are free. I don't mind paying a little for the opportunity to get Level 2 power for a couple hours.

I tried 110v overnight every night for the first week. It almost got me enough for a round trip but it was low by the end of the week. Find ALL the level 2 charge stations near you and plan on topping off once a week. Good luck.

 

[michael]

When the Bolt was firest announced, I was critical of the fact that it has a cheesey resistive heater rather than a heat pump. It should have provided a heat pump, at least as an available option, to mitigate just this situation.

 

[michael]

Maybe I'm just a nervous newbie (I've had the car less than a month, 874 miles), but I'm not feeling great about my range right now. After a reasonably cold week (but certainly not unusual in New York), my fully charged range is nowshowing 152 miles. I have a 52 mile (roundtrip) commute every day, most of which is on the highway. I try to stay around 65mph, though I drift higher occasionally. When it's in the teens (degrees F), I've been wearing my hat and gloves in the car, and using the heated seats and steering wheel, but I still need to set the heat at 68-70 in order to not be shivering. My average efficiency according to the trip meter for the last week (and since my last full charge) was 2.6 mi/kwh. On the "Energy Detail" screen, Driving and Accessories used 79%, climate settings 18% and battery conditioning 3%.

I don't have a level 2 charger yet, and I was only just barely able to make it through the week charging nightly in the garage. Then I had to leave it for nearly 2 days to charge back up to full. Is this the best I can expect, given my situation?

You definitely should get an L2 charger,but even a portrable 3 kW class unit will replenish what you use each day in about 8 hours. A 6 kW unit will solve you problems completely and is the way to go.

A 50 mile round trip is a piece of cake for a Bolt

.

 

[desiv]

When the Bolt was firest announced, I was critical of the fact that it has a cheesey resistive heater rather than a heat pump. It should have provided a heat pump, at least as an available option, to mitigate just this situation.

Actually, a lot of heat pumps don't usually help when it is that cold...
It would probably still be resistive in the 20's and below...
The Leaf Heat Pump is that way.. It's great for 30's and up.. Below that, resistive kicks in..

Although I still think they probably should have used a Heat Pump. A lot of people are in the 30+ range in the winter...

desiv

 

[winterescape]

When the Bolt was firest announced, I was critical of the fact that it has a cheesey resistive heater rather than a heat pump. It should have provided a heat pump, at least as an available option, to mitigate just this situation.

Actually, a lot of heat pumps don't usually help when it is that cold...
It would probably still be resistive in the 20's and below...
The Leaf Heat Pump is that way.. It's great for 30's and up.. Below that, resistive kicks in..

Although I still think they probably should have used a Heat Pump. A lot of people are in the 30+ range in the winter...

desiv

It is a bit more complicated regarding using a heat pump, as desiv pointed out most heat pumps are ineffective at very cold temps, the efficiency of a heat pump falls off as the heat load increases with colder temps. In addition, you need to defog the windows. In the bolt you can run the AC cycle to remove moisture while also running the restive heater. I have not seen the schematic for the coolant flow for a heat pump EV, so I am not sure if they run it like a dehumidifier putting a second refrigerant coil in line or what exactly they do to address the need to remove moisture.

It has also been discussed elsewhere about the time to warm the cabin, the cost, and the reliability of other systems. All trades that I am sure GM ran when deciding on the restive (PTC?) heater for the Bolt

 

[SeanNelson]

You definitely should get an L2 charger,but even a portrable 3 kW class unit will replenish what you use each day in about 8 hours.

Don't forget that the EVSE that comes with the Bolt will work on 240V as well as 120V, despite the fact that it has a wall plug designed for 120V sockets. If you use an adapter or wire up a 120V-style (NEMA 5-15) socket to 240V you can charge the Bolt twice as fast. I've done this in my garage, and it's worked great for me. I was originally planning to have a higher capacity L2 EVSE installed, but given the high cost of upgrading the underground conduit to my detached garage I've pretty much dismissed that plan since the stock EVSE at 240V has more than met all my needs so far.

 

[michael]

It is a bit more complicated regarding using a heat pump, as desiv pointed out most heat pumps are ineffective at very cold temps, the efficiency of a heat pump falls off as the heat load increases with colder temps. In addition, you need to defog the windows. In the bolt you can run the AC cycle to remove moisture while also running the restive heater. I have not seen the schematic for the coolant flow for a heat pump EV, so I am not sure if they run it like a dehumidifier putting a second refrigerant coil in line or what exactly they do to address the need to remove moisture.

It has also been discussed elsewhere about the time to warm the cabin, the cost, and the reliability of other systems. All trades that I am sure GM ran when deciding on the restive (PTC?) heater for the Bolt

That's the rationalization people used, but it's not really the point. Yes, heat pumps don't work at very low temps, but there is still the option to use a resistive pre-heater when the temps are sufficiently low and the result is in all cases more efficient than using resistive heating alone.

And I agree, many people may not care. That's why I felt this should reasonably be an extra cost option.

Leaf has it. BMW has it. Kia has it. It's not something impossible or impractical. It's a reasonable feature for an EV. Those who are driving around shivering would have benefited from its availability.

 

[DucRider]

[... wire up a 120V-style (NEMA 5-15) socket to 240V .

I keep seeing this come up and it is not a good idea. Under any circumstances. Ever. Just don't.

 

[winterescape]

Yes, heat pumps don't work at very low temps, but there is still the option to use a resistive pre-heater when the temps are sufficiently low and the result is in all cases more efficient than using resistive heating alone.
And I agree, many people may not care. That's why I felt this should reasonably be an extra cost option.
Leaf has it. BMW has it. Kia has it. It's not something impossible or impractical. It's a reasonable feature for an EV. .

I don't disagree in principal, however all automotive design is cost/benefit/complexity/reliability/packaging/time to market design trades

I would like a more robust "my Chevrolet" app, a homelink garage door opener, and power seats that set themselves depending on who is opening the door. Would I prefer that GM opted to have a much smaller battery like the BMW, Kia, or Nissan, or that GM delayed the launch to get all the features I wanted in the vehicle? Nope. I like how fast the Bolt cabin heater heats the cabin and I like how quickly my windshield defogs. It will be interesting to see what GM designed into the new Buick EV….

 

[SeanNelson]

[... wire up a 120V-style (NEMA 5-15) socket to 240V .

I keep seeing this come up and it is not a good idea. Under any circumstances. Ever. Just don't.

Personally I'd rather have the 5-15 socket than a pigtail adapter, because the latter will reduce or eliminate the effectiveness of the thermal sensing plug on the EVSE.

The only real risk in using the 5-15 socket is that someone will plug the wrong thing into it. I live alone and the EVSE is permanently plugged into the socket, so for me that's a non-issue.

But yeah, common sense is certainly advised when deciding what to do.

 

[DucRider]

I live alone and the EVSE is permanently plugged into the socket, so for me that's a non-issue.

But yeah, common sense is certainly advised when deciding what to do.

If it's permanently plugged in, hardwire it.

 

[SeanNelson]

I live alone and the EVSE is permanently plugged into the socket, so for me that's a non-issue.

But yeah, common sense is certainly advised when deciding what to do.

If it's permanently plugged in, hardwire it.

As I mentioned, I'd rather leave the thermal sensor in the EVSE plug intact.

 

[GetOffYourGas]

[... wire up a 120V-style (NEMA 5-15) socket to 240V .

I keep seeing this come up and it is not a good idea. Under any circumstances. Ever. Just don't.

Personally I'd rather have the 5-15 socket than a pigtail adapter, because the latter will reduce or eliminate the effectiveness of the thermal sensing plug on the EVSE.

The only real risk in using the 5-15 socket is that someone will plug the wrong thing into it. I live alone and the EVSE is permanently plugged into the socket, so for me that's a non-issue.

But yeah, common sense is certainly advised when deciding what to do.

You live alone now. Who is to say that will always be the case? Moreover, the house you are in is likely to survive you, meaning eventually someone else is going to live there. This isn't the kind of thing that's checked for during a home inspection.

It's really not that hard (or expensive) to buy and install the proper outlet. Doing so could literally save a life.

 

[Maxters]

I keep seeing this come up and it is not a good idea. Under any circumstances. Ever. Just don't.

Personally I'd rather have the 5-15 socket than a pigtail adapter, because the latter will reduce or eliminate the effectiveness of the thermal sensing plug on the EVSE.

The only real risk in using the 5-15 socket is that someone will plug the wrong thing into it. I live alone and the EVSE is permanently plugged into the socket, so for me that's a non-issue.

.

I built a pigtail that I have ziptied together so it's not used for anything else with the OEM EVSE in the car for stops at a family members "Dryer" outlet.
Amazon:
Coleman Cable Generator Cord Adapter From L5-20P To 5-15R (9 Inch, 12/3 gauge)
Cut the L5-20P end off and added,
Leviton 9332-P 30 Amp, 125/250 Volt, Straight Blade, Plug, Industrial Grade, Non-Grounding, Angle, Black

 

[SeanNelson]

Moreover, the house you are in is likely to survive you, meaning eventually someone else is going to live there.

I live in a 70-year-old house in a city where the land prices are among the highest on the planet (we're number 3, according to CNN). It doesn't matter whether I leave this place in a moving truck or a pine box, it will not remain standing. (And if it's in a moving truck then I'll remove the outlet).

Guys, save your breath, you're not going to change my mind.

 

[GetOffYourGas]

Moreover, the house you are in is likely to survive you, meaning eventually someone else is going to live there.

I live in a 70-year-old house in a city where the land prices are among the highest on the planet (we're number 3, according to CNN). It doesn't matter whether I leave this place in a moving truck or a pine box, it will not remain standing. (And if it's in a moving truck then I'll remove the outlet).

Guys, save your breath, you're not going to change my mind.

Regardless, I will not "save my breath". You may not change your mind, and there's nothing I can do about that. But when you provide this advice to someone else on a public forum, I am compelled to voice my opinion. This is a really bad idea. It is dangerous, and could kill someone.

 

[SeanNelson]

You may not change your mind, and there's nothing I can do about that. But when you provide this advice to someone else on a public forum, I am compelled to voice my opinion. This is a really bad idea. It is dangerous, and could kill someone.

That's fair enough, I respect that. But I just want to clarify that it's not unsafe in the sense that it might overheat or short out and cause a fire or something. It's unsafe only to the extent that someone might plug the wrong thing into the socket. If someone thinks that's a possibility they could put it inside a lockbox or choose another solution.

IMHO the pigtail adapter that's been suggested by some isn't really an answer to the concern you're raising because someone could just as easily plug the wrong thing into that. The most foolproof way to avoid misuse is to change the plug on the EVSE. But as I've mentioned before, that defeats the thermal sensor in the plug.