Where Are The Rear Jack Points?

mchapmon · Apr 27, 2018

Ok, I know it must have been discussed somewhere before, but I've checked EVERY thread in the General topics and EVERY thread in the Technical topics of this forum, and since I appear to be blind, I ask, "Where are the jack points on the rear of the Bolt?" I can see the front jack points, but not the rear. I sat in my garage for 45 minutes last night reading the Owners Manual and I am in disbelief that they are not clearly pointed out. In fact, they aren't even mentioned.

If I had roadside assistance come out and they were going to raise the car to take the rear wheel off, I'd like to be sure they jacked it where the car wouldn't be damaged. My dealer didn't know how to answer all my questions when buying this car, so why would anyone expect a service tech to know where all the jack points on every vehicle ever made? :shock:

Hard to figure out who could possibly think this information was not important! A simple .pdf that I could print and keep in the glove compartment would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

sgt1372 · Apr 27, 2018

mchapmon said:
Ok, I know it must have been discussed somewhere before, but I've checked EVERY thread in the General topics and EVERY thread in the Technical topics of this forum, and since I appear to be blind, I ask, "Where are the jack points on the rear of the Bolt?" I can see the front jack points, but not the rear. I sat in my garage for 45 minutes last night reading the Owners Manual and I am in disbelief that they are not clearly pointed out. In fact, they aren't even mentioned.

If I had roadside assistance come out and they were going to raise the car to take the rear wheel off, I'd like to be sure they jacked it where the car wouldn't be damaged. My dealer didn't know how to answer all my questions when buying this car, so why would anyone expect a service tech to know where all the jack points on every vehicle ever made? :shock:

Hard to figure out who could possibly think this information was not important! A simple .pdf that I could print and keep in the glove compartment would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Since the Bolt has self-sealing tires and no spare, GM obviously doesn't think you (or a tow truck driver) need to know where the jack points are.

After doing a brief Google search, I found the following info in Post #52 on the following page in ChevyBolt.org:

http://www.chevybolt.org/forum/12-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/6025-bolt-spare-tire-options-6.html

From the pics, the lift point should be obvious. Can't tell if the jack point is near the mid point allowing the entire side of the car to be lifted at the same time or not.

You don't need the recommended scissor jack if you are doing the lifting at home (or even on the road) if you got a small portable floor jack (which isn't much larger than the scissor jack).

Also FWIW if you need a tow, I would ask for a flat bed truck rather than a traditional tow lift truck to avoid any potential damage.

I haven't needed a tow for awhile but asked for a flat bed tow truck just in case I needed one when the battery in my MR2 went dead. Just needed a jump. The battery would not recharge and had to buy a new one the next day.

SeanNelson · Apr 28, 2018

mchapmon said:
If I had roadside assistance come out and they were going to raise the car to take the rear wheel off, I'd like to be sure they jacked it where the car wouldn't be damaged.

The official jack point seems to be the pinch weld that runs along the bottom side of the car. But I prefer to use the body lift points that seem to be used at the factory - the metal "donuts" that are inboard of the pinch weld. The ones at the back of the car are recessed up above the everything else and are a bit dicey to get a jack onto without contacting the other stuff around them. I've checked my Chevy S10 jack and I can lift the entire side of the car from the front jack point, so if I need to swap my spare on the road that's what I'm planning to do.

mchapmon · Apr 30, 2018

I did get an S10 jack, the seller marked it as being from a 2000 model. I even went out and jacked the right front of the car up until the tire was about 2" off the ground. If that picture of the jack under {http://www.chevybolt.org/forum/12-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/6025-bolt-spare-tire-options-6.html} the rear was there the last time I looked, well, ???? Thanks, don't know how I could've missed it.

I bought a "remanufactured" Bolt Premiere wheel from Midwest Wheel and was well pleased. The people who do the refinishing on the wheel even did the backside of it. It truly looks as good {better, due to the finish work on the backside} as the wheels the day I bought the car. That said, I took a tape measure to the wheel and it is 7 1/2" wide from outside to outside of the wheel. Then, I took a 2' level, as a straightedge, and measured how much the Michelins stick out beyond the face of the wheel, and it's about 1/8". Since that should be the same on the front and back, the wheel/tire should be about 7 3/4" wide. I also measured from the top of the lower false floor to the bottom of the upper false floor {through the hand slot in the upper floor} and found it to be almost exactly 8 1/2" above the lower floor. Should be no problem to put the new tire/wheel there.

I plan to weigh the bare wheel before I add a valve stem and tire, and then weigh it after I have a tire installed. I'm planning to buy a Cooper Zeon, since it's American made. Most of the others I've looked at are from somewhere else. I'll be taking pictures of that to share. So many people on here are good enough to provide pictures and descriptions that I'd feel like a grinch if I didn't! Thanks again for the reference pictures.

SeanNelson · Apr 30, 2018

mchapmon said:
...I took a tape measure to the wheel and it is 7 1/2" wide from outside to outside of the wheel. Then, I took a 2' level, as a straightedge, and measured how much the Michelins stick out beyond the face of the wheel, and it's about 1/8". Since that should be the same on the front and back, the wheel/tire should be about 7 3/4" wide. I also measured from the top of the lower false floor to the bottom of the upper false floor {through the hand slot in the upper floor} and found it to be almost exactly 8 1/2" above the lower floor. Should be no problem to put the new tire/wheel there.

A full sized stock tire on a stock wheel fits below the false cargo floor, but it's tight. I keep a spare down there along with a bunch of other utility stuff (jack, wrench, Li-Ion 12V jump pack, blanket, Tesla EVSE and a couple of adapter cords for different types of AC outlets, etc.

To insert and remove the tire you need to keep the back seats in the upright position, and if you lower the right seat back with the tire installed you'll find it's pretty tight when you lift the seat back up again. But it fits!

NeilBlanchard · May 1, 2018

I bought two generic 1.5 ton scissor jacks, that have a broad lift face, with a slight concave portion in the middle. The front jack point is easy. I used a heavy battery pack mounting bolt just ahead of the rear wheels, to jack the rear.

I jacked up both the front and the back on one side, at once, so I could easily rotate the tires.

The only issue I had was not enough grease on the jack screw - I added my own, and things got a lot better.