Can't add False Floor later?

[gpsman]

Just got my Bolt EV LT Saturday.

Picked one up off the lot that had everythhing I wanted except the rear "False Floor".

Sales guy said "I bet you can add one later".
But we never looked into it since buying the car was already a 4 hour process.

I had hoped to find someone online here who got one and didn't want it, and I could buy it.

Except I quickly realized cars without the second floor installed at the factory DON'T COME WITH THE BRACKETS / SLOTS to hold the floor either.

My car does not have this:
(Photo from SF auto show)


My compartment is smooth here, but there are two circles that look like "knock out" pieces for where the screws could go.

So it makes more sense why this is a $100 option.
Maybe I can buy the part and it comes with the floor, two brackets, and 4 screws. Fingers Crossed. Anyone know?

 

[wwhitney]

I had hoped to find someone online here who got one and didn't want it, and I could buy it.

You could still do that, you just need to remove their brackets and put in your filler plugs.

Maybe I can buy the part and it comes with the floor, two brackets, and 4 screws. Fingers Crossed. Anyone know?

I'm interested in the same thing, and I've gotten about as far as you have in exploring it. I'm pretty confident that one should be able to buy the parts. Let me know if you find out more, and I'll do the same.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[jjr]

My car does not have this:
(Photo from SF auto show)

In that photo it looks like the 'bump out' is moulded into the side panel - if so, then you couldn't simply unbolt from a different Bolt and add it to your car.

However, if that's a pre-production car they may have changed it into an add-on panel piece after making the false floor a buyer's option.

p.s. If I had my Bolt I could've provided better information

 

[wwhitney]

In that photo it looks like the 'bump out' is moulded into the side panel - if so, then you couldn't simply unbolt from a different Bolt and add it to your car.

I recall looking at a Premier at the dealer and concluding that it was a separate piece bolted on.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Pigwich]

Totally just a bolted on piece of plastic. Are you any good with woodworking? It's not a hard part to make. The trouble might be finding the bolt holes blindly through the existing side panel.

 

[Posatronic]

Just got my Bolt EV LT Saturday.

Picked one up off the lot that had everythhing I wanted except the rear "False Floor".

Sales guy said "I bet you can add one later".
But we never looked into it since buying the car was already a 4 hour process.

I had hoped to find someone online here who got one and didn't want it, and I could buy it.



Except I quickly realized cars without the second floor installed at the factory DON'T COME WITH THE BRACKETS / SLOTS to hold the floor either.

My car does not have this:
(Photo from SF auto show)


My compartment is smooth here, but there are two circles that look like "knock out" pieces for where the screws could go.

So it makes more sense why this is a $100 option.
Maybe I can buy the part and it comes with the floor, two brackets, and 4 screws. Fingers Crossed. Anyone know?

Which models don't come with false floor??

 

[boltage]

Which models don't come with false floor??

http://www.chevrolet.com/bolt-ev-electric-vehicle/specs/trims.html indicates that the false cargo floor is standard on the Premier and available on the LT.

 

[gpsman]

Wow! Looks totally different than the car show one! Thanks for posting!

I agree I could make my own. But if it can be bought for $100 (or less) why bother? I have enough challenges in my life. :mrgreen:
Mine has punch out circles, like an electrical junction box. Not plugs. I think once the're punched out, they are out for good.

Totally just a bolted on piece of plastic. Are you any good with woodworking? It's not a hard part to make. The trouble might be finding the bolt holes blindly through the existing side panel.

 

[flamaest]

I would think this 'bump out' could be 3-d printed and bolted in. Anyone want to take a stab at uploading the design to thingaverse.com ?

Unfortunately, I don't have any of these 3-d capture or printing tools, but I would gladly pay for these 3-d printed replicas off ebay. Sounds like a money maker if someone was willing to get the ball rolling.

I have always thought these sorts of replication 'projects' are what could lead to a complete paid-for 3-d setup.

Lastly, I would also be interested in paying for a rolled-up pencil trace of the false-wood floor (to fit into these 'bump outs') which one could deliver in a poster tube for me to take to a local wood shop for replication.

Cheers!

 

[Peterson23]

As an owner of a Bolt with a false floor, I wouldn't put too much effort into it. I haven't found it that useful.

 

[gpsman]

I had assumed the space between the false 2nd floor and the other deep floor covering the 120 volt EVSE would be a good place to hold a rolled up 50 foot 10 gauge extension cord. (These extra heavy duty contractor grade cords are 100% safe and 100% appropriate for charging your EV. The normal, most common variety 16 gauge household grade cords are not. There is a big difference both in cost and current carrying capacity. ) I always use GFI and you can even buy portable GFI for the WALL SIDE of the plug to use in motels, etc.

Or to hold a rolled up 240 v extension cord.
They sell them specifically for EV use so no comments about "Do not use extension cords" please. Everyone is allowed to use appropriately designed extension cords that do not defeat any safey measures.

Comments?

 

[gpsman]

If some one in the Bay Area ( Penninsula / San Fran to San Jose is willing to unbolt their second floor bracket and let me have it for a few days, I'd gladly make a pattern for it.

A few years ago I took classes in 3D modeling and 3D printing. I do not own any equipment, but I know where to borrow some.

I think a 3D printed bracket would work well.
This is the ideal shape and size for most consumer scale 3D printers.

-John

 

[michael]

I had assumed the space between the false 2nd floor and the other deep floor covering the 120 volt EVSE would be a good place to hold a rolled up 50 foot 10 gauge extension cord. (These extra heavy duty contractor grade cords are 100% safe and 100% appropriate for charging your EV. The normal, most common variety 16 gauge household grade cords are not. There is a big difference both in cost and current carrying capacity. ) I always use GFI and you can even buy portable GFI for the WALL SIDE of the plug to use in motels, etc.

Or to hold a rolled up 240 v extension cord.
They sell them specifically for EV use so no comments about "Do not use extension cords" please. Everyone is allowed to use appropriately designed extension cords that do not defeat any safey measures.

Comments?

When people tell me it's dangerous to use an extension cord, I say:

The electricity traveled across hundreds of miles of desert from the generating station, went under miles of city streets and along phone poles, and went through the walls of my house. Do you think it cares if it goes a few more feet in a properly sized extension cord???

What I carry is a J1772 extension cord so I can reach an EVSE that is ICEd orblocked by a fully charged car

 

[SeanNelson]

When people tell me it's dangerous to use an extension cord, I say:

The electricity traveled across hundreds of miles of desert from the generating station, went under miles of city streets and along phone poles, and went through the walls of my house. Do you think it cares if it goes a few more feet in a properly sized extension cord???

I agree that appropriate extension cords can be used safely. But just to clarify: even if you use a cord with sufficient wire gauge for the current being drawn, the connectors can still be a problem. All that distance that the power travels when it flows from the generating station to your wall outlet is over a continuous, fixed path - but when you insert a plug into a wall socket you're forming a temporary connection that isn't as solid. There's a bit of extra resistance there which translates to heat. And when you use an extension cord you're adding more imperfect connections.

So it pays to be mindful of those connections and be wary if the plugs and sockets don't mate firmly and especially if they become warm with use.

 

[flamaest]

If some one in the Bay Area ( Penninsula / San Fran to San Jose is willing to unbolt their second floor bracket and let me have it for a few days, I'd gladly make a pattern for it.

A few years ago I took classes in 3D modeling and 3D printing. I do not own any equipment, but I know where to borrow some.

I think a 3D printed bracket would work well.
This is the ideal shape and size for most consumer scale 3D printers.

-John

Here are some video reviews of good 3d printers at reasonable prices BTW:

https://twit.tv/shows/know-how/episodes/268

Cheers.

 

[EldRick]

Has anyone actually talked to a Chevy parts department about ordering the floor and brackets? They're just parts...

 

[flamaest]

Has anyone actually talked to a Chevy parts department about ordering the floor and brackets? They're just parts...

My understanding is that it is over $100 for two plastic brackets and a covered wood-like floor. It was also listed as such in the Bolt ordering guide.

 

[EldRick]

Well, as a guy who manufactures 3D-printed parts personally, I can tell you for sure that 3D-printing those brackets and making your own floor will chew up hours and hours and hours of time. 3D design and printing is quite time-consuming, and the outcome will not resemble OEM.
But if you value your time that inexpensively, go for it.
When it comes to Chevy, parts are not cheap - a black Chevy bowtie logo like on the one on the front of the Bolt is $110.

 

[gpsman]

I totally agree and understand about the time factor.
I used early versions of "consumer" 3D printers way back in 2005-2006. Something like this would take "overnight" to print back then. But that's no biggie.
( I'm sure they have gotten at least a little faster. )

It can print while we sleep.
The bigger time factor is the first guy the first time doing all the scan or 3D CAD work to get the file, then test fitting and making any necessasry small tweaks and re-printing.

Once done, it's done and the file could be shared quite easily.

I will do this if Chevy WILL NOT sell the item separately. I have a hunch they will.... eventually.... if not today. If it is the same $100 as factory installed... that is pretty reasonable. If it costs double, I'd like to go the 3D printer route.

-John

 

[EldRick]

Why not check with a Parts department to see if you can just order the pieces before making plans to do-it-yourself?