2017 possible transmission issues? Help appreciated.

[chevyboltbb]

Hey everyone!

My 2017 is giving me some issues; just in time for back-to-school season
Any help would be amazing in diagnosing this sucker.

Here's what's going on:

1. While driving in either L or D the transmission feels as if it disengages for a moment, then I get a couple lights thrown: Antilock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light and StabiliTrak Off.
2. I am also shown a couple warnings on the center dash that I'm able to "Dismiss." Here they are: Transmission, Steering Assist is Reduced Drive with Care, and Park Assist Off.
3. A couple times I've also had these lights thrown: Lane Keep Assist (LKA) Light, and Vehicle Ahead Indicator (mind you there is not a vehicle ahead to trigger this).

I also have a couple standard OBD2 codes being thrown:

1. U0077 - Network Electrical - Reserved by Document 4
2. P25C9 - This Generic Definition is not available

I've attached a few images for reference!

 

[BridgeT]

Hey everyone!

My 2017 is giving me some issues; just in time for back-to-school season
Any help would be amazing in diagnosing this sucker.

Here's what's going on:

1. While driving in either L or D the transmission feels as if it disengages for a moment, then I get a couple lights thrown: Antilock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light and StabiliTrak Off.
2. I am also shown a couple warnings on the center dash that I'm able to "Dismiss." Here they are: Transmission, Steering Assist is Reduced Drive with Care, and Park Assist Off.
3. A couple times I've also had these lights thrown: Lane Keep Assist (LKA) Light, and Vehicle Ahead Indicator (mind you there is not a vehicle ahead to trigger this).

I also have a couple standard OBD2 codes being thrown:

1. U0077 - Network Electrical - Reserved by Document 4
2. P25C9 - This Generic Definition is not available

I've attached a few images for reference!

Your 2017 is throwing a fit right before back-to-school season, classic timing! The issues with the transmission and those warning lights seem like they could be connected. Have you checked in with a mechanic or tried reading the OBD2 codes for more clues?

 

[BillM]

The. P25C9 code appears relates to the brake system control module from what I can gather from an Internet search. The U0077 code appears to be bus ecpansion module lost CAN bus communication,

My suspicion is that the U0077 code is probably caused by the other module failing. StabiliTrak, lane keep, and ABS are all braking related. There could be an electrical failure in the model or a loose connection. The most basic thing to try is to clean and re-seat all of the connectors on the brake control module. I’ve had pretty good luck removing corrosion connector pins with Caig Labs D-100 spray. That Is strictly a cleaner. Caig Labs also makes DP-5 whixh is a contact preservative spray.

I’d recommend finding a mechanic who has an advanced OBD-II scan tool such as an Autel which csn do an individual module deep scan. I’ve got the Harbor Freight Zurich scan tool which a relabeled Innova bidirectional scan tool. I’m not sure the Zurich scanner is advanced enough for your issue, but I was able to drill down into to power train control module 2 on my 2017 Bolt to find one side of the contactor in the battery was stuck in the on position. Without the fairly decent scan tool I just got the dashboard MIL lit and a generic code. The battery contactor was covered under the power train warranty. It was a free fix at the dealer even though the car was six years old at the time.

 

[ClarD]

All sorts of maladies can be associated with a bad 12 volt battery.
LEAF owners see problems even while the car is running, if there is a shorted cell.
Do you still have the original battery? It should be tested.

 

[BillM]

The first EV I had was a 2011 LEAF and it would go bonkers when the battery got low. The LEAF really needs to be driven every few days or kept on a 12 Volt battery tender. The LEAF instruction book says that the LEAF switches on the inverter for five minutes per week to charge the 12 Volt battery while parked. That isn’t nearly enough charging time to make up for the vampire loads on the battery. To add insult to injury, the LEAF will not charge the 12 Volt battery while the LEAF is plugged in. I had the LEAF SV (?) model which has a Solar panel in the spoiler. As far as I can tell, the solar panel does nothing at all. Other LEAF owners agree the solar panel seems to be no more than a decoration.

If you go on a vacation or business trip for a week and leave the LEAF plugged in, when you return and press the start button it is like a giant pinball machine with lights flashing, alarm beeping and relays clicking. You pretty much have to disconnect the 12 Volt battery and put it on a charger for about an hour, then reconnect so that the LEAF’s sanity is restored. After you reconnect the battery, you have re-enter radio stations and recalibrate the front power windows. Window calibration is done by running the window down and holding the button for about five seconds after the window is down. Next run the window up and keep holding for about five seconds after the window is up. The rear windows don’t require calibration because they have no automatic function.

I don’t miss the LEAF, it was pretty much a turkey of a car - at least the one I had. I got my LEAF from a Nissan dealer as a lease return in 2014. There was still time left of the Nissan extended warranty when I got it. Of course the LEAF started having serious electrical issues days after the warranty ran out. It looked like the my LEAF had been leased to a graphic arts business in Tennessee based on the data which the dealer(s) did not entirely scrub out of the infotainment system. You could tell from the GPS searches where the car had spent time. From that I surmised the LEAF had been swapped between dealers. The LEAF had only 20K miles when I got it and appeared to have been used gently.