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Wouldn't a battery temperature readout be useful? (Hello GM!)

They forget that they might have four wheel drive, but everyone has two wheel steering and four wheel brakes.

A departure timer hours after you usually depart, along with "priority charging" could be used to do this. I'm not sure if this is the best choice for a Bolt, at least not all the time and everywhere. The reason is the Thermal Management System or TMS. In cold temperatures want to avoid...

The average state of charge is perhaps more important. Shallow depth of change cycles is probably better. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries Do you have "hill top reserve" enabled? (page 132 of the manual)

Aluminum foil would work. I have a problem with getting banjos left in my car.

Auto reset to an idealized efficiency would be a bad GOM. The reasons why a GOM is not accurate include: 1) The GOM doesn't know where you are going to drive. It might, if you enter a trip into a nav system linked to the car. Or even predict based on location, time of day, day of week and the...

I suggest searching for a relevant topic and reading there. Reply or start a new topic if you have something new to add. Like a gasoline car MPG, miles per kWh decline in cold weather. It has been discussed before.

I should also mention the joy of never stopping at a gas station on a frigid day with a stiff wind blowing...

The disadvantage to an EV is that you lose range. Sure, an ICE also loses range in cold weather, just not as drastically. The advantage to an EV is that the car starts.

4 miles per kWh at 12 cents per kWh gives 3 cents per mile. Adjust for your mileage and electric rates. There are people in Washington state with 2.6 cent electric rates. With that and 5.2 miles per kWh, one-half cent would be possible.

if you move, a plug in is easy to disconnect and take with you. If you have a problem with the unit, and need to exchange the station, plug in is easier. If you upgrade later, plug in is easier. Hardwire will be cheaper. I have a plug in L2 charger, and have done all three over the past 6 years...

You probably need an L2 in the garage. A 240V 50 Amp outlet with a 40 Amp breaker cost me $321. Minimum cost would be less, several details added maybe $50 to this cost. This might vary a LOT depending on where your panel is, and the details of your panel. You might get a better quote if you...

Comment was not specific to the Bolt, of course. :lol:

Check the rate on L2's. Some are 3.1kW maximum. 15 Amps, 208 Volts. That would be 20 hours every 200 miles. The RV park with 50 Amp service might be a better option. There are some big gaps that only RV plugs (NEMA 14-50) can solve. I80 between Salt Lake City and Cheyenne, nothing but...

Wind noise, if you roll the windows down or put the top down, is far worse.

Do make sure you are charging at 12 Amps. The default for L1 is 8 Amps. Other than that, L2 charging will make it much better. Even if not at the full 32 Amps. My new house has the L2 station close to the breaker box. Some complications. Cost to install was $320.70.

Probably, based on other EVs, but failure of a single cell isn't that likely.

Yes. Your car is fine. Do you have any way of measuring battery temperature? My guess is that your battery is cooler, and as a result can store less energy. If so, the GOM may be giving you good information. After the trip, before the battery has cooled down, I suspect your GOM will be closer...

Which doesn't help at all if you are in a campground with a TT-30 outlet.

Yes, I think I said that. Not everything is typical.