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The app for my i3, while it can unlock and "start" the car cabin conditioning, it needs to talk to the central server and can take 30s to a minute to make happen. The car also will not operate unless the keyfob is within the cabin. Of course, the bolt's setup may be different.

No, this is how you check your charging status (if you're sharing an EVSE at work, for example) or enable climate control when you're about to walk to your car after a day at work/shopping.

This link: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2017/Chevrolet/BOLT%20EV/Owner's%20Manual.pdf (page 44) says:

The rest of it is used to prop up the residual (the car will not be worth 60% of its MSRP at the end of 3 years. It will lose 25% just driving off the lot due to the $7500 federal credit being consumed.) Alas, I'm in Texas. Too far to make it work, plus I think I'd get reamed by sales tax...

Can you just leave it in low and do one pedal driving (even on the highway?) I'm completely used to this with my i3, and the normal coast/creep forward thing really irritates me now.

What is "L", or what is it supposed to stand for?

Maybe. If it's charging off of the 12v battery, then that's only 30-40Ah, compared to an iphones 3Ah.

Or maybe the tax credit is not on anybody's radar, and would be too politically damaging to "fix", even if they wouldn't have voted for it in the first place. It would require a pretty targeted effort to get rid of, and it only costs around $1B/yr. The law was originally passed by ~2/3rds...

I was leaning towards histrionic leftist believing Trump is the Apocolypse.

FWIW, a dealership in Austin, TX claims to be getting cars on lot late January/early February. Prob too late for me, as my lease expires jan 27. but I put my name on the list to be notified. They said mid-January is when they'd know more.

I think the overlap of EV centric people and wagon/hatchback drivers is pretty strong. Also, I think the hatchback allows for a car with more "trunk" space, since the floor is taken up by batteries.

Your insurance would cover that. The security deposit is about incidental damage (dings, scratches, stains on the upholstery, etc)

The only time it makes sense to "put money down" is by buying "MSD"s or multiple security deposits if they allow you. BMW, for example, lets you give them up to 7 MSDs (each MSD is equal to one month payment) that reduces the money factor (aka interest) they charge you on the amount of the car...

https://leasehackr.com/leasing-101/ is useful

That would throw away a LARGE amount of money in the form of brand. The last Opels sold in the US was back in the 70s.

The link shows "in transit" for me.

I think you'd have to be New York City government to get that price.

fwiw, you might want to put the portion from the article in quotes, so people don't think it's you ranting. Unless it is you, then you're wrong and should feel bad.

Or pay $500 to ship it. Or use the DCFC options (not sure if there's any on your route)

Interestingly, it's exactly opposite in some states that require you to pay tax on the full price of the car on leases.