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Glad you got it to work. The same holds true for Electrify America....use the app to start the charge.

Good to know. I believe the Mustang ME has "plug and play" charging at EA stations? Maybe Audi too?

How would the charger do that?

The Bolt will accept up to 32 amps if the charger will supply it. There is no setting on the car where you (or anyone) can change that. The limit is coming from the charger. I don't see how the charger knows what the "circuit breaker capability" is. There's most likely a setting somewhere...

A bad or "low" 12V causes the electronics to do weird things. I'd charge up the 12V (or replace it) and see if the chime went away.

Maybe this will help? https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/read-this-before-programming-a-second-keyfob-if-you-only-have-one.37130/

If you mean the CCS charger, no it can't

Prof. John Kelly has done several videos of a Bolt tear down. I don't recall seeing anything like wiring or fragile equipment in the "sub trunk", but if you're concerned about it, you should watch his videos. Actually, you probably should watch his Bolt videos anyway since they are highly...

I thought about removing it, but I think it supplies some support for the (flimsy) floor? YMMV

Yeah, I saw that. I guess it depends on what the guy who wanted to sell means by a "fair" price. Used Bolt prices dropped because a lot of them were coming off lease, and GM was (and still is) offering HUGE discounts for new ones. But, plenty of people are selling their used Bolts, so it's...

i don't know if it will help, but you can press "home" + "FF" to reset the system. Kinda like CTL-ALT-DEL on a computer. Or, as a last resort, disconnect (use a 10mm wrench) the negative 12V battery lead for 10-15 seconds. This resets the computer.

Thanks for the follow up. Glad you're back to normal

Since you had a Bolt previously, you probably already know these things, but I'll list them anyway for newbies who may be reading this post. Range decreases as speed increases, so drive slower to increase range. (same for an ICE car) Higher tire pressure is better than lower pressure. I think...

80 miles is no problem. If you find yourself low on range, just slow down. Speed really eats range.

3.2 miles/kWh is pretty good in winter, especially with the heat on. You're fine. If you can plug in to charge at home (220V), it will help your range to precondition before you leave. This will turn on the battery heater and make your drive more efficient. It also means you'll leave with a...

That works out to be around 3.2 miles/kWh. Given a 60kWh battery and 90% charge, that would calculate to 60 x 0.9 x 3.2 = 173 mile range, which is about what you reported. So I don't think you have battery degradation. I don't blame you for using creature comforts on your commute. If you...

The GOM is just that...a guess-o-meter. Range is estimated (estimated!) based on how the car was previously driven. Your real range depends on battery temp, driving speed, tire pressure, etc. Typically it's lower in winter and higher in summer. What is your average mile/kWh rating over ...

Thanks Paul

Or better yet add a 50A (or even 60) for future proofing when your next EV will charge at 12kW. :)

I think there's a setting for that. You probably have it turned to "on". It's there because some are worried about others unplugging their car, and possibly stealing their charger. Most people I know set it to "off"